Tzoumerka – Epirus Explorer

Exploring Tzoumerka: A Circular Route from Syrrako to Kalarrites

Areti Myrto — Sat, 29 Jun 2024 19:29:28 +0000

The two villages of Tzoumerka, Kalarrytes and Syrrako, offer wonderful routes along the paths that connected the two villages in old times. One such route was organized by the Ioannina Mountaineering Club in mid-June.

The route is circular, and the hike starts from the road outside Syrrako near the chapel of Saint George, passes through Kalarrites, and ends back in Syrrako, crossing two different paths.

The first path goes through the Batza forest, reaching the Kouiasa bridge that spans the Kalarritikos River. Upon reaching the bridge, a path to the left leads to the Kouiasa waterfall and the old watermill, which is renovated and operational during the summer months. The location at this point is among the most beautiful in the area. The natural pools formed near the waterfall are ideal for those who can withstand the cold waters—and there are many who can. We are in the gorge of the Kalarritikos, and words cannot describe the beauty of nature.

From there, the return to the Kouiasa bridge continues until the start of the second “Kouiasa – Pouliana” path towards Kalarrytes. The descent of the previous route is now an ascent, but the reward is the stunning view of the peaks: Kakarditsa, Katafygi, and Gerakobouni.

The path reaches just below the square of Kalarrytes. A stop in Kalarrytes, this beautiful village, is both enchanting for its location and its architecture.

We continue to the second section of the route. Crossing the village, we reach the edge and take the path that leads to Syrrako. We descend into the gorge of Chrousia or Stavraetos, another impressive setting. The path is safe because protective railings are in place at dangerous points. There are some difficulties at the very steep areas, but we overcome them as the railings provide significant help.

We proceed with a view of the opposite slope, and soon we catch sight of Syrrako, with its houses appearing literally hung on the gorge. We continue and hear the river’s roar becoming clearer, indicating that we are nearing the riverbed. We make a stop to view from above the uniquely renovated watermill.

Upon reaching the riverbed, a small metal bridge facilitates crossing the river. In the past, the river was spanned by an old stone single-arch bridge known as the Chrousia bridge, which was destroyed during a river surge. It was the first of the stone bridges built to ease the crossing of a very challenging path that ascended to the chapel of Prophet Elias, passed Baros, and descended to the Aspropotamos area in Thessaly (from “Bridgeography of Pindus” by Spyros I. Mantas, Volume II, page 359).

Then, the ascent to Syrrako begins. We leave the coolness of the water and enjoy the view from this side. The gorge, in all its wildness and majesty, unfolds before us. Upon reaching the old wagon that was used for transporting goods to and from the watermills, we have arrived at the edge of Syrrako.

Syrrako is a true gem of Tzoumerka, with its authentic traditional architecture. It is the homeland of Kostas Krystallis, the unfortunate poet who, however, managed to celebrate the beauty of the mountains during his short life. The route within the village, the two stone bridges with the cobblestone path between them—the Pountea Noua (new bridge) and the Pountea Nik (small bridge)—and the Fantanitsa spring, provide a final glimpse of a wonderful day.

One last look, one last photograph of Syrrako, and a promise not to miss the autumn colors of Tzoumerka.

The post Exploring Tzoumerka: A Circular Route from Syrrako to Kalarrites first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Kalarrytes – The beautiful traditional village

Areti Myrto — Fri, 28 Jun 2024 14:23:00 +0000

Kalarrytes are located on the western slopes of the mountain range of Pindos in the Prefecture of Ioannina in Epirus, at an altitude of 1200 meters and geographically belong to the region of Tzoumerka. The village is surrounded to the south by the mountainous masses of South Pindos, the Athamanian Mountains or Tzoumerka (2429m) and north of Mount Lakmos or Peristeri (2294m). Among them Kalarrytikos or Chrousia River, a tributary of Arachthos, flows its waters.

Kalarrytes

History and Information

The area of the village, as it appears from the findings, has been inhabited since the Copper Age. The raids of the Slavs in the lowlands during the 7th century forced the inhabitants to ascend and settle in the mountains and inaccessible locations for greater security. Somewhere between 10th-12th c. the Vlach-speaking Greeks, mainly breeders who lived a half-life, appeared in the area.

The location and the name

The French historian and diplomat F. Puqueville (Pouqueville, François Charles Hugues Laurent (1770-1838), gives a wonderful description of the location of the settlement: “built on successive levels, beginning from the lips of Abyss and rising upwards at a distance of six hundred orbs on the southern slope of the mountain Pantoure Moure,(“Mountain of the Woods”), a place that, as it is said, was chosen by the Vlach residents, on the one hand to preserve their freedom, because from this point they could be isolated and at the same time control any invaders and on the other hand to make it easier to communicate with Thessaly and Arta.

The original huts of the farmers took the name Kalarrytes in the beginning of the 13th century from the waters that wandered rolling out of the rocks, as Pukeville says. However, it may well come from the surname Kalaris who gave the place name Kalari, or on the basis of the normal spellings of Kalarites, since its name refers to the Aromanian (Vlach)) word calar that means “rider, horseback rider, horse rider”.

The Despotate of Epirus

In the period of the Despotate of Epirus (1204-1430) the settlement was its property and was independent. (Parenthesis: the Despotate of Epirus was one of the states that emerged from the abolition of the Byzantine Empire after the Fourth Crusade in 1204).

After the abolition of the Despotate in 1430 they were in danger of becoming slaves in the spas. (Parenthesis: the spas (Turkish: sipahi = army) were the main Turkish military body was the main Turkish military body that ruled mainly the provinces and collected the taxes. This body consisted of Turkish officials and Greek feudal lords who had changed to save and keep their fiefs (feud). To them the sultan had given land for exploitation and poor Muslims, mainly Albanians, for workers. In turn, they sent in return the tax that a Turk was estimating). T

hat is why the Kalarrytians preferred to subjugate the Valide Sultana (mother of the sultan) and secure important privileges, such as autonomy, independence, self-government, freedom of religion, etc., with the sole obligation to pay only three taxes, the staff, the sheep (tax paid by shepherds or sheep owners), and the subordination.

Valide Sultana

The historian Lambrides says that any Ottoman was forbidden to enter a village belonging to the Valide Sultana unless it was a “carcass autopsy case”, and then he was forced to shake off the “dust” from his horse’s petals. It was such a power of the Christian villages that belonged to the Valide Sultana that many Ottoman families were forced to move to other villages.

There was once an incident that, fortunately, did not result in a tragedy. When the 1560s became mass kidnapping of children the Turks naturally took children from the Kalarrytes who when they grew up returned – Turks now- to the village as spas and demanded to marry women from Kalarrytes. Fortunately, with the intervention of Valide Sultana, at the request of the inhabitants, they were completely expelled from the area and went to settle in some parts of Thessaly (Trikala, Karditsa, Kastania), where they became known as Vlachotourks.

The progress of the village

Kalarrytes made great progress and growth at the time. The cold climate did not favor the cultivation of vegetables, with the result that men turned to livestock farming while women were engaged in sewing and weaving. At first the professions served their personal needs.

Over the years, however, they have turned into profitable professions. Thus, the commerce of the livestock products (milk, cheese, butter etc.) began to be processed, the animal skin, the wrinkle, and which in the course of time developed into important craftsmanship of woolen products (clothes, folates (shag wool rug), textiles etc.).

However, the main occupation was the weaving of the Kalarrytic woolen fabric for white and black caps. Long for shepherds and farmers in Albania and Greece, short for sailors and fishermen in the Adriatic. This growth attracted other craftsmen and tradesmen from the rest of Greece who came and settled in Kalarrytes, with the result that the population increased considerably.

Other areas of professional activity were wood carving, painting, gold-engraving, and especially silversmithing, where they became famous silver masons.

Technicians, such as Ath. Tzimouris, Diam. Bafas, assimilating elements from the art of the West, created some of the masterpieces of Modern Greek miniature techniques.

Export of products

Since the middle of the 17th century, Kalarrytes, as well as neighboring Syrrako, have been major product extraction centers, concentrated there from the neighboring villages and mainly from Thessaly. The merchants and the muleteers which were paid both for the conduct of transit trade and for human trafficking, were also occupations in which Kalarrytians were active. Residents of the region had established commercial houses in major European centers, such as Trieste and Livorno. Economic prosperity and improved living standards also brought the spiritual rise to the village.

The population increased (about 3,000 permanent residents), schools and colleges were opened, books and newspapers were released and in general the cultural and social level was booming. This is confirmed in books by travelers like William Martin Leake and Pouqueville. In fact, they say that there were libraries with ancient writings, books in French and Italian, the village had its own permanent doctor (Corfiot) while the inhabitants spoke foreign languages and knew the prices of European stock exchanges. No wonder Ali Pasha had a cottage in Kalarrytes.

The Revolution

With the declaration of the great Greek Revolution by Ypsilantis in February 1821, the Revolution in Kalarrytes and neighboring Syrrako was proclaimed at the end of June of the same year. Unfortunately, the two villages were unable to cope with the powerful Turkish troops, which ravaged and burned everything. Total destruction. This was also the beginning of the end of great prosperity.

The Kalarrytians left and settled in the Ionian Islands and mainly in Zakynthos, Messolonghi (where they lived the great disaster of Exodus), in Paramythia (the known Bulgari family) in Corfu, in Italy and other distant places where they found affection and support from other Greeks, expanding their business activities in Italy.

Typical examples are the Nessis family, established in Rome, and the Voulgari family (the Bulgari jewelery house). The end for the clairvoyant craftsmanship comes in the early decades of the 20th century, when the conjunctions of the time led to the closure of the workshops in Kalarrytes. But the story had already been written in “silver” letters.

Amnesty and security

The Turks understood their mistake because with the development and richness of the villages they were taking enough hike. So in 1822 they issued an order (. (buyurdι) promising amnesty and security to those who would return to their homes. But who could trust them? In 1826 they issued a second order with the same promise. (Both these orders are saved in the archives of the Kalarrytes community).This time some bold people came back. The 1831 census lists 26 families (out of the 500 that existed before 1821) and those impeccable.

Of course they started from the beginning dealing with agriculture and livestock farming and the trade of traditional products but in a rudimentary form. In 1828 the school was re-operated. Since 1870, they have begun to advance again, thanks to their personal work and the financial support they had from the immigrants that had flourished Then they started to repair the half-damaged houses or build new ones These are the old mansions that we see today.

Eventually in 1881 came the long-awaited day of liberation and attachment to free Greece. But only for the Klarrytes, because Syrrako stayed in Turkey. This is because the Berlin Treaty (1878) defined the rivers Arachthos and Chrousias (or Kalarrytikos) as the border between Greece and Turkey. So Syrrako was on Turkish soil while Kalarrytes in Greek. For Syrraco the freedom arrived on 23 November 1912.

Kalarrytes

Kalarrytes Today

Today Kalarrytes is a typical mountain village that fortunately has not deserted like other villages and there is life even in the winter. The permanent residents are about 15-20 people, most retirees. In the summer, however, it is filled with people, both by the visitors and by the migrated who have repaired their homes and are visiting their homeland.

The inhabitants are mainly engaged in livestock and tourism. In the village, we should bear in mind that cars are not in circulation, because its cobblestone cannot be mistreated. In the center of the village on the beautiful paved square that is also the center of community life, there is a huge plane tree and the large stairs reminiscent of a theater and serve as a seat for spectators when celebrations and events are held.

What to see in and around Kalarrytes

The sights of the village include the mansions of: Voulgaris, Bazakis, Barboutis, Nessis, Tourtouris, Paraschis, Patouni, Raftanis, Baikousis, Kostadimas. Of these, others are preserved and others dilapidated.

Architecture

Kalarrytes is a proclaimed traditional settlement. Along with neighboring Syrrako are the only villages that keep this architecture unchanged in the south of the prefecture of Ioannina. The gray stone of the place is also the basic building material and the wood from Pramanta and Melissourgoi. The transfer was carried out with animals (mules), which was very expensive. The same is true today when residents want to maintain or build new homes. The same happens today when residents want to maintain or build new homes.

The architecture is simple and strict and the windows feature blue, green or brown colors with interior wooden shutters due to the cold winter. The Kalarrytian residence, like all in the Epirus area, is usually two-storey or three-storey, with auxiliary spaces on the ground floor. On the upper floor(anogi) there are the accommodation and reception rooms, the winter (ontas) with the fireplace made of porous stone and with broad sofas covered with woolen woven and the summer one (hotziares).

The village gets water from several beautiful stone fountains built with traditional architecture.

Bridges

The Bridge of Kouiasa

It is a stone one-arched bridge on the road that goes up to the village, in the homonymous location, at 742m. altitude, over the Kalarrytiko River and in a very nice natural landscape in its ravine. Unfortunately, dense vegetation makes it almost invisible. It is accessible by a small path (there is a sign on the road). It has foundations in the rock and an auxiliary arched opening.

It was built in 1800, unknown by whom, with money offered by Kalarrytes to be able to pass their caravans. Some maintenance works have been done since the bridge has been damaged by landslides. Quite above the bridge is a restored watermill with mantani and dristella (constructions with a large wooden bucket in which water is dropped from above by pressure and in which clothes, carpets or covers are placed for cleaning).

Filos Bridge

It is a stone single-arched bridge at 749m. altitude above Kalarrytikos river, next to the road to Kalarrytes. It has a relief opening and a low parapet on its sides. It was built in 1908 by the master builder Filos from Agnanta, hence the name. It is kept in good condition, although without any repair or maintenance. It is located on the road to Kalarrytes near an iron bridge Bailey type and there is a sign on it.

Filos Bridge

Raftanis Bridge

It is a two-arched bridge with a relief opening between the arches. It is located under the monastery of Kipina and is one of the oldest bridges of Arachthos.

It bridges the Kalarrytikos River and its name, as the Bridge of the Station, is due to the Greek military penitentiary that existed there until 1912. The financier of the construction seems to have been the abbot Kallinikos of the monastery of Kipina.

Raftanis Bridge

Karlibou Bridge

One-arched bridge in the homonymous location at 750m. altitude, above the homonymous stream that is poured into Kalarrytikos river. Affordable with a small path that starts from the main road and continues for the Vyliza Monastery near the village Matsouki. It is kept in good condition, although without any repair or maintenance, but it has been drowned by vegetation. The name Karlibοu is of Vlach origin and refers to the crook (glitsa) that is necessary for the crossing of the gorge. There were old mantania and watermills but they have not been saved.

Churches, Monasteris and Chapels

Agios (Saint) Nikolaos (patron of the village)

It is a large three-aisled basilica with impressive dome. It is unknown when it was built but after the destruction of 1821 it was remarkably repaired by the repatriates. It is a triune church and the three aisles are dedicated to Agios Nikolaos (central), Agios Charalampos (right) and Agioi Pantes (left).

Agios Nikolaos

Moni Kipinas

On the road to Kalarrites, high on a sheer cliff about 40 meters tall and above the gorge carved by the Kalarritikos River, there lies an unseen religious treasure. The Kipina Monastery, dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos, is literally embedded in the rock, offering an unobstructed view of the surrounding peaks. According to the founder’s inscription, it was built in 1349 and belongs to the small settlement of Mystras (formerly Armporousi or Armporisi).

Activities

Starting from the easiest: Walking through the village and the nearby paths, fishing of wild red trout in Kalarrytiκos River and swimming in its clean but frozen waters. There are also difficult but impressive: Hiking routes and mountaineering in the nearby locations of Mount Lakmos that rises above the village, climbing to the mountain pastures of the village and to the highlands of Verliga Lake of the third legendary dragon lake of Pindos.

Also a very beautiful (a bit tiring) route is the crossing of the path (about 3 km) that connects the two villages of Kalarrytes-Syrrako for centuries.

With your car you can cross the Baros passage and reach Anthousa and Chaliki and the other villages of the Aspropotamos area.

Floating downhill rides in the Kalarrytikos and Arachthos rivers is a unique experience for the lovers of these activities. Besides, there are offices that organize such activities.

Accommodation

In recent years the settlement has been developing tourism. The old mansions have been restored and transformed into stylish guesthouses combining traditional architectural character with a comfortable stay.

Food

In a mountainous area, family-run taverns maintain traditional cuisine with traditional recipes and main products are forage (famous for grilled and cooked meats). A nice specialty is the nanes (wild grass that grows on mountains after the snow) with fried feta (Greek cheese), oil and a little garlic. Also famous and delicious are the eEpiruspies such as grass-pies, cheese- pies, milk-pies, rice-pies, batsaria (a varietal grassh-pie with dough of corn flour). And of course wild trout from the river, local tsipouro and wine.

The post Kalarrytes – The beautiful traditional village first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Five days in Tzoumerka: Visiting the villages of Agnanta, Pramanta, Melissourgoi, Syrrako, and Kalarrites

Areti Myrto — Thu, 11 Jan 2024 15:37:43 +0000

The beauty of Greek countryside in Tzoumerka

Tzoumerka is a hidden treasure of Greece, a paradise for nature lovers and those fond of traditional life. Join us on this amazing exploration over five days. Our journey begins with visits to some of the most interesting villages in the area.

Day 1: At the Plaka Bridge and the Monastery Mouhoustiou

Our adventure in Tzoumerka starts at Plaka Bridge, famous not only for its history but also for its impressive architecture. Spanning the rushing Arachthos River, it is the third-largest single-arch bridge in Europe. Walking here, you will feel the sense of history and unique architecture.

If you have time you can enjoy a glass of fresh juice from the old customs office located next to the bridge which is now a cafeteria.

The bridge of Plaka

Next, we made a brief stop at the Monastery Mouhoustiou. Located between Plaka Bridge and Raftanaioi village, it offers a unique experience for visitors. The monastery, straddling both the Ioannina and Arta regions, has seen better days but still holds significance.

At the monastery Mouhoustiou

From the Monastery Mouhoustiou, we headed to Agnanta, one of the largest villages in Tzoumerka with 283 residents, situated at an altitude of 650 meters.

The village Agnanta

Known for its numerous springs and lush vegetation, Agnanta is a refreshing and picturesque village.

In Agnanta

Our next destination was the Anemotrypa Cave, three kilometers from Pramanta at an altitude of 900 meters. Here, visitors will find uniquely sculpted colorful stalactites and three small lakes reflecting shades of grey, brass, and white. The cave, formed over time, is like a magical space filled with fantastical faces and architectural masterpieces.

In Anemotrypa Cave

After visiting the cave, we stopped in Pramanta for food, then headed to Melissourgoi and our accommodation at Agathi, where we stayed for two nights.

A small taste of the view from the room

The property

Day 2: Discovering the Kefalovryso Waterfall and Pramanta

Breakfast with a view

Waking up on the second day of our trip, we couldn’t have wished for a better breakfast. The tranquility of the mountain, the delightful scents, the delicious breakfast, and the stunning view were the perfect start to a full day of exploration in Tzoumerka.

The Kefalovryso Waterfall: Natural Beauty at the Highest Point

Our first stop was the Kefalovryso Waterfall. This waterfall is one of the most impressive spots in Tzoumerka, emerging from the northern side of Strongoula. 350 meters long and flowing continuously, it forms the Koferita stream, joining the Melissourgoi stream. The route is easy and well-marked, starting either from the Pramanta or Melissourgoi Refuge.

Kefalovriso Waterfall

After about half an hour’s walk through a spruce forest, we reached the waterfall. If you let your gaze wander from right to left, you’ll see the northern part of Strongoula, Gerakobouni, the top of Agathi, the Neck of the Auti, and the impressive Kakarditsa.

After visiting the waterfall, we chose to go to the Pramanta Refuge, where we enjoyed a relaxing coffee and local dessert.

Exploring the village Melissourgoi

Next, we explored the village of Melissourgoi, enjoying a pleasant walk. Beyond the traditional architecture, the natural beauty and flowing waters are captivating, with dense vegetation emitting a sense of peace.

Read our post for the village of Melissourgoi here.

The village Melissourgoi in Tzoumerka

After our walk, we stopped at the Melissourgoi Refuge for coffee with a unique view and met the sweet dogs that frequent the refuge.

At the refuge in Melissourgoi

Pramanta: Discovering the Head Village

At the end of the day, we ended up in Pramanta, enjoying a leisurely stroll in the village center.

Pramanta

We visited significant sights such as the Arapi fountain, the Monument of the Woman of Pramanta, the Church of Agia Paraskevi, and the beautiful square.

In Pramanta

Our day ended at “Taverna Cafe Very’s Lampros“, offering delicious food, excellent service, and reasonable prices.

The beautiful square in Pramanta

Read our post for the village of Pramanta here.

After a full day and a satisfied stomach, it was time to return to our base to prepare for the next day.

Day 3: Syrrako and Other Wonderful Stops

Our Third Breakfast and an Unforgettable Moment at the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi

Our third breakfast started just as deliciously, this time joined by Sophia, the accommodation manager. Two days of tasty breakfasts, stunning views, and great company seemed too short. However, the rest of our day more than made up for it.

Before leaving the area, we made a quick stop at the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi in Melissourgoi. It’s one of the most beautiful and well-kept monasteries I’ve visited in Epirus, and words can’t fully capture the peace felt there.

Agia Paraskevi Monastery

On the Road to Syrrako: A Series of Unique Stops

We headed to Syrrako, but on the way, we passed through Christoi village and reached Sygkouna Bridge. It’s a single-arch stone bridge crossing the Kalarritikos river, built in 1908 by the merchant Sygkouna. Perched on the rocks on either side of the river, it is an impressive structure.

The bridge of Sygkounas

Continuing to Kalarrites, we didn’t visit the village this time but stopped at the stunning Monastery of Kipina.

Inside the monastery

This small monastery is built entirely in the hollow of a rock, creating a dome-like interior.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Areti Myrto | Travel & Nature (@aretimyrto)

The bridge of Filos and the Gkoura guesthouse

We continued to Filos Bridge, a stone single-arch bridge at an altitude of 749 meters, over the Kalarritikos river. Built in 1908, it is well-preserved and an important historical site, near a Bailey-type iron bridge and is a remarkable place to visit.

The Filos Bridge

Then we cross the bridge and a little further we make a stop to visit the path that leads to the waterfalls of Kouiassa with an impressive natural beauty that is definitely worth exploring. A place where the sounds of nature are the most beautiful music.

The Kouiassa waterfalls

Kalaritikos river

The path leads to the Waterfalls and the old watermill, which has been renovated and functions as a cafe and more.

At the cafe in the old watermill

We decided to leave Kalarrites for the next day and ended up in Syrrako. We stayed at Gkoura Guesthouse, which also has an excellent tavern. Our room was very clean and comfortable. The tavern offered delicious dishes with generous portions and reasonable prices. But the best part was the owners, who were exceptionally hospitable and warm people.

Day 4: Kalarrites, Monastery of Vyliza, and a Wonderful Excursion

Exploring Kalarrytes

After enjoying a full and delicious breakfast, we began our exploration of Kalarrytes. This village, perched on the slopes of Tzoumerka, is located at an altitude of 1,120 meters, above a steep gorge where the Kalarritikos river flows.

The village Kalarrytes

In the village, you’ll find many guesthouses, most housed in traditional buildings. A popular destination is the traditional coffee shop “Akanthos,” offering coffee, appetizers, cooked dishes, and delicious meatballs.

In Kalarrytes

Monastery of Vyliza: A Treasure in Tzoumerka

We continued our tour to the Monastery of Vyliza. This monastery is near Matsouki, on a narrow plateau on the slope of Kritharia mountain, above the Matsoukiotiko Stream. Located at an altitude of 1050 meters, it combines wild beauty with quaintness, over a cliff and with views of the gorge where the three tributaries of Arachthos meet.

Read our post about the Vyliza Monastery here.

The Excursion to Matsouki

After visiting the Monastery of Vyliza, we decided to make a quick stop in Matsouki. Although the location is stunning, unfortunately, Matsouki lacks amenities like cafeterias or taverns. We were disappointed to find everything closed, but worse was the poor road condition to Matsouki. We managed to bypass obstacles and hope it’s more accessible in another season.

Read our post about the village Matsouki here.

However, the view that we saw at the chapel of Agios Petros was magical and it is worth mentioning the specific point of view..

At Agios Petros chapel

The Chapel of the Holy Apostles: An Excursion into Wonderful Nature

Returning to Syrrako, we decided to take one of the most beautiful short excursions we’ve experienced in Epirus. We took a dirt road from Syrrako and, after 20-30 minutes, reached the chapel of the Holy Apostles. There, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of Lake Ioannina.

It’s hard to describe the feelings this route evokes, especially where the chapel is located. Mountain lovers will fully understand.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Areti Myrto | Travel & Nature (@aretimyrto)

We ended our day with a wonderful dinner at Gkoura tavern and a stroll in Syrrako, enjoying the sunset.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Areti Myrto | Travel & Nature (@aretimyrto)

Final Breakfast and Farewell to Syrrako

Our last breakfast was an opportunity for one final stroll in Syrrako before departing.

In Syrrako

We enjoyed the village’s beauty one last time before starting our journey back to Ioannina. As we were returning to Ioannina, weather permitting, we chose to return via Baros Pass.

The two stone bridges that we meet upon entering the settlement’s entrance are of exceptional beauty. The first is the Punta Nuova Bridge or New Bridge built in 1800 and next to it the Fantanitsia fountain is preserved. The second is the bridge Punta Viaklia Bridge (old bridge) or Nik bridge, built in 1938 on top of an older one. Nearby is a watermill.

Read our post about Syrrako here.

New Bridge

Old Bridge

As our return was to Ioannina, there was no chance, weather permitting, that we should not choose to return by the Baros pass.

It is one of the most challenging passes in Pindus, known for unpredictable snowstorms even in spring. The road crosses an amazing path of beauty among gorges, steep slopes, and dense forests.

Baros Pass

This visit to the beautiful area of Tzoumerka was not our first, but it was yet another unique experience that reaffirmed our love for this place.

Tzoumerka combines natural beauty with rich history and tradition, leaving us with memories that will stay with us forever.

The sense of peace, the rejuvenating mountain climate, the rich gastronomy, and the warm hospitality that resonate from every page of our travel journal make us feel blessed to have had the chance to revisit this hidden gem of Greece.

The post Five days in Tzoumerka: Visiting the villages of Agnanta, Pramanta, Melissourgoi, Syrrako, and Kalarrites first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Theodoriana – In a mountainous paradise

Areti Myrto — Mon, 17 Apr 2023 15:56:17 +0000

Theodoriana is a village in the prefecture of Arta and is nestled on the slopes of Eastern Tzoumerka at an altitude of 980 m. The description of the route leading to the village is too poor in words to describe the impressive scenery.

Where nature utilizes the abundant water creating small and large waterfalls.

The asphalt road from Athamani climbs with continuous bends to the ridge of Stavros at an altitude of 1400m. The stop is essential and the view is amazing (weather permitting). The river Acheloos, the villages of Tzoumerka, Agrafa and Amvrakikos gulf are the picture we see. From this point onwards, the descent begins and the village appears between the inaccessible peaks of Katafidi and Kryakouras, which they are like to protect it.

Historical Information about Theodoriana

Source: The information in this section is based on the Historical Review that you can find on the website of the Theodoriana Association, theodoriana.com.

Theodoriana were mentioned for the first time with their current name in 1695, in a tax list of the Venetian authorities. The area, like the whole of Epirus, has hardly been studied archaeologically, with the result that many historical elements remain unknown.

However, archaeological finds in the area and some unofficial historical evidence justify the view that Theodoriana are a historical continuation of the ancient city of Theodoria in the land of the Athamanes and its inhabitants are the first historically ascertained tribe that lived in the area. The historical course of the ancient city followed that of Epirus. The prosperity that Athamania experienced during the reign of Amynandros was violently interrupted with its total destruction in 167 BC by the Romans, it became a Roman province and fell into obscurity.

Regarding the origin of the name, the oldest historians speculate that it is due to the king of Athamania, Theodoros, without specifying the exact location of Theodoria. The younger researchers and historians place Theodoria in the Selios (Slavic word meaning village) site of the Theodorians. And it is unknown when the name change from Theodoria to Theodoriana took place

The period of the Turkish Rule

The Turkish occupation begins in 1431 for Epirus, but not for Theodoriana and the other villages of Tzoumerka resist and achieve semi-independence and self-government. The Turks after 1652 began to limit these rights. However, Theodoriana and some other villages of Tzoumerka maintained certain privileges until the period of the satrapy of Ali Pasha (1788). From 1740 the local captains once again formed the Armatoliki Tzoumerkon. Throughout the Turkish occupation, Theodoriana did not experience permanent Turkish occupation. The stables of the breeders were a refuge for the hunted and Kleftarmatoli.

Revolutionary movements and battles

Theodoriana in the Revolution of 1821

On May 15, 1821, chieftains, captains and fighters gathered at the Monastery of Agios Georgios in Vourgareli and proclaimed the revolution in Tzoumerka and Radovyzi with the blessings of the abbot of the monastery, Christoforos. Georgios Karaiskakis, Giannakis and Mitros Koutelidas, Gogos Bakolas, Andreas Iskos, Giannakis Ragos, Markos Botsaris, Koutsonikas are some of the names of the fighters who participated. The inhabitants of Theodoriana took part in all the battles that followed.

The Battle at the Stavros passage

In July 1821, Ismail Pasha, with two thousand Turkalvans, marches towards Tzoumerka with the aim of opening the way to Sterea Ellada and the Peloponnese. After setting fire to the villages of Sirrako, Kalarrites, Pramanta and Melissourgi, the Turks arrived on August 2 in Theodoriana, which was empty of inhabitants.

The Greek chieftains led by Gogos Bakolas decide to give battle at the Stavros passage. The first attack on August 4 is followed by the big attack the next day. The Turks are six thousand and the Greeks about five hundred. The Turks do not manage to pass the rassage of Stavros and are forced to retreat counting significant losses. The victory at the passage of Stavros in Theodoriana was decisive for the development of the Revolution, because it prevented the Turks from crossing to Sterea Ellada and the Peloponnese and gave the opportunity to strengthen the revolution there.

The rebellion of Kostilata

Liberation for Theodoriana came on June 24, 1881 and the reconstruction of the village began. After the annexation, however, a problem arose with the ownership status of the Kostilata meadow. After the departure of the Turks, the meadow was sold by the Turks Mustafabei and Sukerevei to the landowner brothers Nikos and Giorgos Antonopoulos.

The Antonopouli brothers rented the Kostilata meadow to the chief shepherd Georgios Hatzaras. The Turks took it as conquerors, so now with the liberation it temporarily belonged to them. The reaction of the residents was reasonable, but the big landowner persisted, as of course all the Greek landowners who appropriated entire lands after the departure of the Turks.

The dispute spread, and the village armed with weapons, khajaras, axes, and sticks faced the military detachment accompanying the 2,000 sheep of the cheliga Hajara to graze in the Kostilata meadow. Finally, the two sides came to an agreement and on July 25, 1883, a contract was signed that transferred Kostilata to 131 residents of Theodoriana. Today the Kostilata meadow is managed by the Local Cooperative of the village.

Kostilata is also known for its springs at an altitude of 1450 m. The bottling plant is located nearby and the waters are bottled directly from the springs.

Source: The information in this section is based on the Historical Review that you can find on the website of the Theodoriana Association, theodoriana.com.

What to see

Hiking and climbing routes

The village is an attraction in itself. It is a mountain paradise with two rivers and dozens of springs in the area. The location and the wild nature with the intense mountainous relief that surrounds it make it one of the most interesting destinations. From here on, the hiking and climbing routes, depending on everyone’s capabilities, are many and varied. Do not forget that the village is located in the heart of Tzoumerka. Many routes are carved on the old historical paths.

With a 4×4 you also go up to the Kostilata plateau above the village.

Of course, for those who are looking for something difficult, climbing the peaks of Tzoumerka is an experiential experience. And the most interesting thing is that the electronic map of the paths around Theodoriana is in the final stage thanks to the active Association of the village.

Attractions in and around Theodoriana

Souda waterfalls

Among the most impressive points are the Souda waterfalls located at an altitude of 1300 m. A few minutes of driving on a paved road and about twenty pleasant hikes in an impressive landscape lead to the waterfalls.

The Souda Waterfalls

The waters start from the peaks of the Eastern Tzoumerka, they split creating a twin waterfall that falls from a height of 25 meters and that keeps its waters throughout the year. Then the waterfall joins the stream of Aspri Goura.

The “Marks” stream

The “Marks” stream is located in the heart of the large and virgin forest of Elatia. It is a very beautiful area where the water flows forming small lakes and waterfalls. Two to three kilometers before the village on the right there is a parking space for the car and a relevant sign. The duration of the hike to the point of the second lake and the return is about an hour and a half.

At the Marks Stream

The mountain shelter

You definitely have to go up to the mountain shelter of the village, which has a small guest house, cafe and restaurant. A little above the village on the road leading to the double waterfalls of Souda a sign directs you to the left. In addition to coffee and food, you will enjoy the amazing view.

The view from the shelter

At the shelter

The “Stavros” passage

You also have to make a stop at the “Stavros” passage between the villages of Athamanio and Theodoriana. The name comes from the wooden cross erected by Cosmas the Aetolian in 1777 when he visited Theodoriana where he founded the first school in the village.

The “Stavros” passage

The settlement of Skarpari

A visit to the surrounding villages and the settlement of Skarpari located above Acheloos and belonging to Theodoriana is a very good idea to enjoy the area.

Churces and Monasteries in Theodoriana

The church of Agios Georgios

It is located in the center of the square and was built in 1880 by Pramanti craftsmen on the site of an older church that was built in 1777.

Η Εκκλησία του Αγίου Γεωργίου

The monastery of Panagia

It is located in the north of the village and was built by the abbot Anthimos Argyropoulos in 1793, who was a monk there for many years. During the Turkish occupation, it functioned as a co-educational school, and during the years of the Occupation, it was turned into a hiding place for patriots, as well as a makeshift surgery and hospital.

Anthimos Argyropoulos was a historical figure with a great contribution. He was imprisoned by Ali Pasha for many years but after the pleas of powerful chieftains he was released. First he went to Corfu where he became friends with Ioannis Kapodistrias and then to Zakynthos where he was appointed vicar. He was initiated into the Philiki Etairia and he himself initiated many, including Theodoros Kolokotronis.

The stone bridge of Goura

It is located in the site Plagia below Theodoriana on the road leading to Thessaly. It bridges one of the pits that together with others create the Goura left tributary of the Acheloos River.

The bridge of Goura

The bridge was built in 1924 by craftsmen from Raftanei. According to word of mouth, the construction of the bridge was difficult and the cost quite high. However, here too, effort and cost were expressed with a variation of the well-known legend: “haunted the shadows of two girls carrying stones to the bridge, who fell ill and died in 40 days”

The bridge of Goura

Source: ΣΠΥΡΟΣ ΜΑΝΤΑΣ, ΓΕΦΥΡΟΓΡΑΦΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΠΙΝΔΟΥ, Β΄ΤΟΜΟΣ, σελ.301

Events

Τhe large fest of August 15th

It is the most important celebration not only for its religiosity but it is also the opportunity to reward all those who are absent far from their place. The festival on the feast of the Virgin lasts two days – August 15 and 16 – and the dance, which has a ritual character, makes the festival famous. With the ringing of the bell, all the residents gather in the square to dance the traditional “double-barrel” dance. The dance has its roots in the Ottoman Empire and the name diplokagelo is due to the kagelia (i.e. the serpentine turns) that the dancers make during the dance.

The dance forms two lines. The order of the dance is determined by an expert for the occasion and the village priest is the first to dance, in order to underline the sanctity of the fiest. The women are in the first row are with their arms crossed and behind them the men, while with one voice they sing and dance, the song of “Kostilata“, known in Panhellenic with its variations. The song refers to the Kostilata meadow and recalls the struggle and uprising of the Theodoriana habitants against the landowners, which had bought it from the Turks.

The post Theodoriana – In a mountainous paradise first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Pramanta – Under the imposing peak of Strogoula

Areti Myrto — Fri, 28 Oct 2022 16:11:46 +0000

Pramanta is located on the southeast of Epirus and west of the Arachthos river, in a mountainous region with an intense geographical relief characterized by impressive ridges, extensive spruce forests, rivers, ravines and slopes, located Pramanta, a big village of Ioannina Prefecture and seat of the Municipality of Northern Tzoumerka.

It is built amphitheatrically at an altitude of approximately 840m. at the foot of Strongoula (2.107m), one of the most spectacular peaks of the Tzoumerka Mountains or the Athamanian Mountains. (Besides, the story of Tzoumerka starts with the king Athamas, from which his name “Athamanian Mountains The village Pramanta belongs to the cultural unity of the Tzoumerkohoria (villages of Tzoumerka), but at the same time together with other villages (Christoι, Ambelochori, Ktistades, Raptanei) belongs to the unity of Mastorochoria of Tzoumerka.

Historical information for Pramanta

Name origin

The place name Pramanta appears for the first time in a document of the Venetian Republic in 1697. According to historical records, three are the main versions of the designation of origin.

The linguists Charalambos Symeonidis and Max Vasmer argue that the origin of the word Pramanta is Slavic. The historian Panagiotis Aravantinos reports that the area was called Prοmanta because it served as an oracle of Dodoni and 3) according to the oral tradition, the name derives from the word pramata, terminology with which it refers to goats and sheep According to Dimitrios Karazenis (“HISTORY-LAOGRAPHY», Pramanta Tzoumerka”), the animals of Christi and the other settlements grazed in the area of today’s “Kato Mahalas” mainly during the summer months.

Animals in the local dialect are called pramata. Thus, the village was originally called Pramata and after a decision of the Town Hall was added, for euphony, the n and became Pramanta.

The creation of the settlement of Pramanta

It is unknown when the original settlement was founded. Some finds (traces of ancient settlement, a stonecutter, fortified ruins, cyclopean walls, etc.), found in the area of the Panagia, Aghios Vassilios and Christoi settlements date back to the Neolithic Age.

More specifically, in 1930, historian Nicholas Hammond, one of the most important English Hellenists, found a stone rectangle ax near the church of the Virgin Mary in Pramanta and in Christ, in the area of Pramanta, an ambitious bronze ax, which was an effective weapon and spread to mainland Greece from the Aegean Sea.

However, without a more systematic research, we cannot say with confidence that the area has been inhabited since then. But we certainly know that the whole area with the surrounding villages had been inhabited since ancient times, and somewhere in the middle of the 15th century it also showed great growth.

Historical events after the liberation from the Turkish occupation

In Pramanta there was a school operating since 1864. In 1873 there were 2000 residents and two Greek schools operated with 210 students, supported by subscriptions. Eight years later in 1881 and three years after the Treaty of Berlin (July 1878), the village, as well as a wider part of Epirus, was liberated and annexed to the Greek state.

The Province of Tzoumerka was established, consisting of the municipalities of Theodoriana, Agnanta, Pramanta and Kalarrytes, with Pramanta be the capital of Province. Within a short time the village was organized with the establishment of the Postal Office and the County Court in Pramanta and a Customs Guard and Sanitary Station to Christi. In the same year on August 20th in the parliamentary elections that took place, Tzoumerka claimed 2 seats.

In 1883, the Municipality of Pramanta was established and operated until 1912. In 1912 he was detached from the municipality of Pramanta and became the seat of his own homonymous community, which passed (1925) from the Province of Arta and Tzoumerka of Arta’s Prefecture in the province of Ioannina in the Prefecture of Ioannina.

But, despite the fact that the borders were set on the Arachthos River, the village was not completely free since it was feud of Abraham Pasha,who in 1888 sold it to the big landowner Karapanos for 3500 gold pounds, who had also bought other villages of Tzoumerka.

The formion of the large tsifliks in Arta and Thessaly had begun between 1878 till 1881 the year that the Treaty of Berlin was signed and Arta and Thessaly were annexed to the Greek State.

The absolute liberty was acquired when the inhabitants bought it (9/8/1889) from Karapanos for 4200 gold pounds. In 1897 Pramanta became a military center, where the habitants helped the other Epirus villages beyond the Arachthos river, which were still under the Turkish yoke, since freedom for them came in 1913 with the liberation of Ioannina.

The area of Tzoumerka experienced the great reorganizations caused by World War I and the National Divide. In the wars that followed (World War II, Civil War) many residents lost their lives, while many were forced to flee their homeland, especially when the village was burned by German troops.

On the morning of May 1, 1967, the second day of Easter, a strong earthquake measuring 6.4 on the Richter scale caused extensive damage. Pramanta was among the villages of Tzoumerka where the greatest intensity was observed.

In 1997 Pramanta became the seat of the then newly established Municipality of Pramanta, while in 2010 with the program “Kallikratis” it became the seat of the Municipality of North Tzoumerka.

Livestock and Tselingata

Since the period of antiquity in the Tzoumerka region, livestock farming, forestry and the limited cultivation of land due to small arable land were the main productive activity Livestock breeders have created the tseligata (a type of informal cooperative associations) which have prevailed almost until our days, but not with the same dynamics of the past.

Tseligata was created by the need to share large-scale pastures, due to the absence of security at that time and the lack of credit institutions for the financial assistance of individual breeders. The breeders joined their flocks under the leadership of the economically stronger, tseligas, which had the most animals and who could more easily rent meadows for the wintering of communities and individuals Tseliga’s area of influence was not limited to the sphere production but extended to the entire social life of the collaborators breeders and their families.

Agogiates and tailors

Agogiates

One of the main and old professions of the Pramantians was that of the carrier (agogiates= transporters of people and goods over long distances).

These people are also mentioned by Dimitrios Karatzenis, historian and folklorist from Pramanta: ”For years these people have been doing this work constantly, irrespective of the weather. Life in the countryside was difficult at the time before the 1940s, when the mountainous villages without roads were excluded due to bad weather. The Pramantian carriers (agogiates) madetransfers from the towns to the village and vice versa. In addition to transporting food and other things they also transported families to the summer holiday destination. Until the 1940s war, the number of mules that made up the caravan was 900. Of the mules, a small number belonged to the livestock farmers who were occasionally engaged in transport. Every Tuesday they left the village, on Wednesday they arrived in Arta, on Thursday they were shopping and on Friday morning, independently of weather conditions, they took the road back to reach the village on Saturday night and Sunday morning to sell their merchandise in the courtyard of the church. On Monday they were resting and on Tuesday they started the route again. The agogiates had also their own shops supplying them with products sold by women and their children the other days of the week the other days of the week that were missing. And of course there were also trains that kept them much longer away from their fires in much more distant places than Arta and with paths in the mountains of Pindos. And grooming of mules was another tiring job. The mules were sturdy and could carry up to 130 okes (turkish unit of weight)  (167 kilos). And the purchase price of a mule pre-war reached 19,000 drachmas equal to half the price of a car”.

The same work was done by the neighbors of Melissourgoi. Exhaustive work and most of them died at the age of 50-60 years. This profession was lost with the appearance of cars and the endless suffering of these people ended and only the stories are witnesses of a harsh era.

Tailors

Another profession occupied by the inhabitants was that of the tailor. This activity was complementary and seasonal and, as a rule, moved to different areas away from their village carrying the equipment of their work. Like the other categories of professionals, the tailors also had their own dialectic language, the “boukoureika”. According to the headmaster, author and folklorist Christos Soulis (1892-1951), the home of “boukoureika” is the village Katarraktis. From Katarraktis, the dialect was transmitted to the tailors of Agrafa, Epirus and the areas of Valtos and Xiromero in Aitoloakarnania. This language was used to prevent their customers from understanding them.

Music and dances

Northern Tzoumerka can hardly be identified from a musicological point of view. Apart from the local companies that were created in the Vlach villages of Syrrako and Kalarrytes, the rest of the area was supplied mainly with companies from Ioannina. Characteristic of the local peculiarity is mainly the repertoire, which, even in its Vlach version, insists on “heavy” and “in the place”, tsamika, with many references to the kleftiko song. The dances are skillful and expressive. The main companies are those of the Gerodima and Diamantis families from Pramanta.

The oral memory in Tzoumerka is associated with historical events that were recorded as symbols of resistance and freedom and are preserved in the memory of people even those who have left their place. In the area of Tzoumerka we meet the custom of the dance “Kangelari” which is an imposing circular dance. It is done once a year and everyone participates. It got its name from the clockwise and counterclockwise shootings that the dancers go around in “Circles” and the name “Kangelari” is later.

Written and oral testimonies state that the “Kangelari” was created during the Turkish occupation, but there is also the view that it is related to Ancient Greece and the feasts of Demeter and Persephone.

The “Kangelari” is not a specific dance, but a ritual act with a deeper meaning that is hidden under its simple form. The inhabitants dance in circles with their elbows, which indicates the unity and continuity of the community, and the rhythm of the song and the steps are slow and monotonous, characteristic of the initiation ceremonies.

The universal participation and the back-to-back arrangement of the dancers was an excellent opportunity for the young people to get acquainted. This provision also helped in the greater communication of the inhabitants, especially during the years of Ottoman rule. The meaning of the songs had a completely different interpretation for the “initiates” An important place in the “Circles” had the saints whose people wanted protectors in every phase of life as well as the foreigners who were welcomed, a sample of the Tzoumerka hospitality. Cultural associations for years make efforts to survive this event with its various musical, poetic and dance variants.

Originating from Pramanta

Kostas Bekas, the master builder of the bridge of Plaka, was born in Pramanta in 1825. He learned the art of stone from a young age and undertook, sometimes with his own team and sometimes with his fellow villager Giannis V. Tsikos, the execution of large and important works, mainly churches, mansions and bridges. According to the memoirs of his son Nikos Bekas built churches (in the villages of Pramanta, Theodoriana, Vetsista) and bridges (Plakas Arachthos in 1865, Kalentinis, Sarandaporou, Sarakina Piniou, etc.). He was also a public works contractor.

The Georgakis family also comes from Pramanta, which produced many real artists, stonemasons and wood carvers. Best of all is considered Vassilis Georgakis (1853-1935) who even today remains a legend for the region of Tzoumerka. He was an excellent stonemason, but he was equally successful in wood carving, trade, distillery, mills, engraving, etc. He traveled to many places and some of his works are: the churches in nearby Matsouki and Kournes in Thessaly, the iconostasis of Stanos and Loutro in Etoloakarnania etc.His real masterpieces are considered the bell tower in Agios Bissarion of Philippiada and the so-called Fountain of the Arapis in Pramanta.

Another popular craftsman of Tzoumerka is Fotis Karatzenis from Pramanta. He was born in 1869 and grew up in a family of stone masons. He participated from an early age, learning in his father’s company. After the liberation, he decided to join a construction site where he proved his technique. He became a contractor and he was evaluated positively every now and then. He was eventually rewarded with successive promotions, which meant undertaking projects of greater value. He died in 1943, a few years after retiring from active duty.

The teacher Costas Tsirkas (1906-1944) also comes from Pramanta. In 1930 he moved to Thessaloniki where he organized in the KKE (Communist Party of Greece). In 1938 he was arrested and taken to the communist concentration camp of Acronafplia. In May 1941, after the occupation of the country by the Germans, the prisoners of Acronafplia by order of the Deputy Minister of Public Security Konstantinos Maniadakis, they were handed over to the occupiers. Costas Tsirkas was executed on May 1, 1944, along with 200 communists at the Kaisariani Shooting Range, in retaliation for the murder of a German general and his entourage by ELAS guerrillas near Molai in the Peloponnese. Without having committed any crime against the occupiers, as they were exiled or imprisoned throughout the Occupation, they were led to the executive branch solely because of their political beliefs.

Pramanta today

Unfortunately today there are no traditional buildings in the village, except for a few. The burning of the village by the Germans and the earthquake of 1967 destroyed many of the traditional houses. Old houses that are examples of local architecture are the houses of Vourlokas, Giannikostas, Stamos, Karakostas, Tsirkas, Tsikos.

Pramanta

In the center of Pramanta is the beautiful cobbled square with the huge old plane tree, which was and is a reference point for the festive events of the religious festivals and the meetings of the expatriate residents during the summer days that are gathered in their birthplace.

The square is dominated by the central church of Agia Paraskevi which has been designated as a historical monument and the Fountain of Arapis which represents a human head with a tap coming out of its mouth. It is the work of Pramantian master builder Vassilios Chr. Georgakis and was created in 1887. The name, it is said, comes from a black man (arapis) who stood here and collected the taxes of servitude.

The church of Agia Paraskevi in Pramanta

The Monument of the Woman of Pramanta is a culpture in the center of the village reminiscent the contribution of the women to the nation’s struggles.

Watermill – whirlpool – mantania: Historic listed building owned by the Tsaktsiras brothers. It is a ground floor stone building of simple folk architecture with a rectangular plan. Built in 1935 is perhaps the only case of co-housing water mill, whirlpool and mantania.

In Pramanta

The area of Tzoumerka in recent years has made huge leaps in the promotion of tourism, with the participation and involvement of professionals and with the support of institutions.

Today Pramanta is a lively village in the center of the area and the seat of the Municipality of North Tzoumerka with a population of about 800 inhabitants, which in summer exceeds 1500. It has taverns, patisseries, cafes and nightlife. It also has a modern Health Center, pharmacy, environmental education center, gas station, bank, ATM, post office, police station and schools of all levels. In this traditional village, which combines the modern way of life, the visitor can find information about everything he needs.

Pramanta

Tourism development in recent years is at a high level with the creation of hotels and hostels in the area. The quality infrastructure of the accommodation and the local gastronomy are key elements of a comfortable stay

The experiences gained by the visitor are quality experiences related to the experiential approach of the impressive nature of Tzoumerka and the monuments of the cultural heritage. “Active” tourism enriches the travel experience, and leads the visitor to more and more specialized activities.

The range of activities in such a natural environment is large and the options depend on the time available, the endurance and the mood. Mountains, and peaks for mountaineering enthusiasts, hiking trails, visit to waterfalls,rafting in Arachthos and Kalarrytikos, gorge descent for the adventurous, car trips to the surrounding traditional villages, visits to monasteries, churches and bridges. A special destination beyond the summer months.

What to see

Monasteries and churches

Throughout the Ottoman rule, the strong religious sentiment of the inhabitants of Tzoumerka and their deep faith helped them to face the difficulties not only of those who came from the barren land but also of those of Turkish rule. The expression of their faith is reflected in the construction of numerous churches and monasteries in the mountains of Tzoumerka.

Besides, their geographical location helped in the relative autonomy granted by the Turks and contributed to the reconstruction of ecclesiastical monuments. Most of the monasteries, apart from religious institutions, were centers of Hellenism that preserved and spread the language, the customs, the traditions, and mainly transmitted the idea of revolution and liberation to the hearts of the slaves. The successive fires of the villages have destroyed many of these Byzantine monuments and those that exist date from the 17th century onwards.

Agia Paraskevi church in Pramanta

In this place from the old days there has been a small chapel dedicated to Agia Paraskevi. In 1890 the new church was founded in a basilica style with domes and under the guidance of the folk architect Konstantinos Mpekas, who came from Pramanta. With the contributions of the residents and the personal work of villagers, men and women, the work progressed to a point and then stopped due to a lack of money.

The characterization of the church contributes to the preservation of the special physiognomy of Pramanta, an interesting mountain settlement in the area of Tzoumerka (http://listedmonuments.culture.gr). In honor of Agia Paraskevi, which is celebrated on July 26, there is a traditional feast organised in Pramanta which lasts three even four-days.

The monastery of Agia Paraskevi

It is located between Pramanta and Melissourgoi on a hill with splendid lush vegetation of spruce and fir trees. It is a walled large three-aisled basilica, covered stone slabs, with a loggia, cells on the front side, hostels on the first floor and a beautiful stone-made spring a little further. It was built in 1876 by the monk Dionysios Noutsos, as an engraved inscription says on the entrance.

The monastery played an important role in modern history as it was the seat of the chieftain Putetsis during the 1912-1913 fights, and later used as a base by Napoleon Zerva’s teams. Inside, the remarkable icons in the iconostasis date back to 1839 and were transported here from the old church of Agia Paraskevi that was next to it. It celebrates on July 26th and becomes a religious function and a feast, but it is also open for the rest of the year because it is inhabited. Moreover, due to the beautiful natural location, the residents of the surrounding villages also prefer it for various social events (weddings, baptisms, etc).

Agios Nikolaos

Beautiful small church in Kato Mahalas. It was built in 1875-1876 at the expense of the Ptamantian Ioannis N. Rigas, of a well-known merchant with his trading center in Paramythia, from where he exported his products to Corfu and abroad.

The church of Asproklisia

It is located in the beautiful forest of Markopoulo.

The stone buidings of water

Tzoumerka is a predominantly mountainous and inaccessible area with amazing nature and rich water resources which people exploited with wisdom and moderation, subjugating nature and making it their ally.

This constant effort to survive in a bygone era is depicted in the bridges, watermills, mantania, fountains, wells, water saws, which are today stone monuments of the pre-industrial era. Some of the many and remarkable examples of traditional architecture are located in the area of Pramanta.

The bridge of Plaka

Historical monuments are an attraction, they recall important moments of history, but at the same time they serve as a pole of attraction for visitors. They are unique examples of the Εpirotic architectural tradition and modern Greek culture.

The bridge of Plaka

The bridge of Plaka is one of the most famous bridges, not only for its history but also for its perfect construction and its wonderful architecture. It bridges Arachthos, one of the most rapid rivers of Epirus and is the largest single-arched bridge in the Balkans and the third largest in Europe.

Watermill, whirlpool and Mantania

Historic monument, owned by the Tsaktsira brothers. It is a simple ground floor stone building of 1935. Remarkable are the cylindrical stone hoppers that carry water to the water mill and the impeller, but also the stone-built water mill, one of the few of its kind.

The bridge and the watermill of Christoi

A two-arched bridge which bridges the Melissourgiotiko stream and is located immediately after the settlement of Christi on the way to Pramanta. It was constructed during the first years of liberation from the Ottomans (1833-1890) and replaced another older one located on the downstream.

Its condition is modest, as the deck has been coated with asphalt and the motorway passes. Next to it there is a traditional water mill, which in the period 1881-1912 was used as a military and customs outpost.

Next to the bridge of Christi there is a traditional watermill which from 1881 to 1912 was used as a military and customs outpost.

The bridge of Sigounas

A single arched stone bridge with a flat deck that bridges Kalarrytiko River. It is perched on the cliffs of both sides of the river. The bridge was constructed by the merchant Sygounas fron Syyrako, as from this point he was passing his merchandise to Arta.

Before the construction of the bridge, the transport of the goods was carried out with a wire rope, which was fixed on both sides of the river. The bridge is located on the road from Kipina to Christi.

Activities

Gorges and waterfalls, peaks and rivers, mountain paths, forests and plateaus… majestic ornaments of the earth.

The area around Pramanta as well as the wider area of Tzoumerka is full of landscapes that seal the wild and authentic beauty of nature inviting the visitor to initiation and experiential enjoyment.

Strogoula

The beautiful peak of Tzoumerka with its characteristic shape is the trademark of Pramanta and a favorite peak of climbers.

Strogoula peak

Impressive in all seasons and visible from all sides, it magnetizes the eye.

Strogoula peak

The forest of Markopoulo

The fir forest above the village.At a time when the population of the village had increased and the arable land was not enough, they cleared various parts for cultivation. When the cultivation stopped, the forest was reforested and reached its current form.

From the village starts a path and a wonderful route in the fir forest. First stop is the Skala spring which is the source from which the village is supplied with water. It is called Skala (staircase) because it is the first step for the ascent to the forest of Markopoulos. The next source is Kerasia and the path reaches the Pramanta refuge.

The refuge of Pramanta

It is built at an altitude of 1260 m. On a beautiful plateau below the north side of Stroggoula and with stunning views of the volume of Kakarditsa.

It has been operating since 2006 and has beds, organized kitchen, dining area, living room and fireplace. Next to the refuge, a small open-air theater is built.

Tsopelas

A settlement of Pramanta which in recent years has been significantly exploited. It is a summer destination of many Pramantiotes who live far away and come to their homeland in summers. The square of the settlement is very beautiful and in general it is a very well-kept settlement.

Melissourgoi

A few kilometers from Pramanta is the village Melissourgoi with the three squares and the volume of mountains around with the wild beauty that fascinates. In the center of the village is the first paved square with fountains and plane trees, a little above a second paved square and at the bottom of the village is the square of Panagia. From the beautiful villages of Tzoumerka with impressive areas for exploration and activities and with tourist infrastructure.

Also, a short distance above the village is the refuge of Melissourgoi at an altitude of 1209m. It is open all year round and consists of 5 rooms, chalet and kitchen. The rooms have five beds, heating and a private bathroom. The kitchen is open daily from early in the morning until late at night, offering a full board for guests.

Kefalovriso waterfall

Strogoula never ceases to fascinate. From the north side, the cascade of Kefalovrysso springs with a length of 350m. and with a constant flow of all seasons. The waterfall in its course forms the stream of Koferita which flows into the stream of Melissourgoi.

Kefalovriso waterfall

The route is easy and marked and starts either from the Pramanta Refuge or from the Melissourgoi Refuge. We walk in a fir forest for about half an hour until we we go out in an open area. Following the course and having visual contact with the waterfall we walk for about forty minutes. Leaving the gaze to wander from right to left we see the northern part of Strongoula, Gerakovouni and the peak Agathi, the Neck of the Ear and finally the impressive mountain range of Kakarditsa.

The magical world of Anemotripa

Three kilometers from Pramanta is the cave of Anemotrypa and is something you must see.The cave was discovered in 1960 and explored by Anna Petrocheilou. A part of the cave about 270 meters long was studied and explored. In 2000 the 250 meters were used for tourism and today it is accessible to visitors.

The cave has three levels. The tallest and oldest collapsed in the past and some parts of it are preserved. The middle level is what has been used for tourism. The third level is the underground riverbed, which is seen at the end of the tourist path,just before creating a waterfall 2 meters, 10 meters lower than the path.

The water of the river appears again in a spring located in the ravine, 25 meters below the entrance of the cave. Stalactites and stalagmites with various formations and colors create an eerie backdrop. And of course what the visitor perceives is the clean atmosphere that shows that the cave has natural ventilation, and also is felt the complete lack of smell from the mold that most caves have.

The twin waterfalls in Tzoumerka

The waterfalls are located near the settlement of Kriopigi which belongs to the village of Katarraktis on the western slopes of Tzoumerka. The northern waterfall is more rapid and has a height of 87 m., While the southern reaches 100 m. Above them stand the northwestern peaks of Tzoumerka, thus creating an impressive setting.

The water from the mountain ends after a serpentine course of about 10 kilometers in the river Arachthos. In the area of the waterfalls, a paved path and bridges have been created, so the approach is very easy, while a refreshment room is very close. The best time to visit them is towards the end of May, as then the waters are many and the force of their fall is impressive.

Kamili waterfall in Tzoumerka

One of the most impressive waterfalls in the area is located just before the village of Matsouki. This is the “Kamili” waterfall which is impressive not for its height (50 meters) but for the large volume of water that descends even in the summer months. Streams are created from the high peaks, such as Katarrachias (2280m.) And Kritharia (2200m.).

Two of them, Mavrias and Goura, cross Matsouki and creating an impressive waterfall they pour from a height of 50 meters. A little further on, they join the Red River and together they flow into the Matsoukiotiko Stream, which crosses the homonymous gorge, and in the process receives the waters of Karlibou stream.

Important information – Sources

Much of the historical information you will find in the article was based on the book “Πράμαντα Τζουμέρκων – Ιωαννίνων, Ιστορία – Λαογραφία” by the Pramanta Brotherhood.

The post Pramanta – Under the imposing peak of Strogoula first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Melissourgoi – Tribute to the beautiful mountain village of Tzoumerka

Areti Myrto — Fri, 28 Oct 2022 12:35:36 +0000

Melissourgoi is one of the villages of Tzoumerka that enchants you from the first moment.

High and inaccessible mountain ranges with deep folds in which basins are formed, wild and at the same time beautiful mountains, snow-capped and lost peaks, rushing rivers, impressive waterfalls, seasons with color changes. It is the Athamanian Mountains or Tzoumerka that are a mountain range whose main trunk forms a horseshoe that in its unique opening to the N.D. rolls the impetuous Arachthos that flows into the Amvrakikos gulf.

The village of Melissourgoi is built on this passage at 1100m height and in the basin that is formed between the volume of Kakarditsa and Stroggoula.

“… and I climbed the mountain peaks gazing at the sun and the fir trees smiled at me and the fragrant cedars softened my aching body…”
Κώστας Στάμου (Τζουμερκιώτικα Χρονικά 2014 σελ. 193)

History and Information of Melissourgoi

The exact date of creation of the settlement is unknown. There is a view that the settlement of Melissourgoi were created by the contraction of micro-settlements during the Turkish occupation. It is very likely that the attack and the destruction caused by the Mani pirate Lyberios Gerakaris, who had joined the service of the Venetians, contributed to this, and we invaded Arta and its villages, looting and killing.

In general, the area of Athamania is an area in which extensive and systematic excavations have not been carried out, with the result that the history and culture that concerns the very old times remain in the dark.

The archeological findings (looted tombs, charcoal remains, etc.) found at Melissourgoi at the sites of Kastania, Dovru, Gritsana, Skripta, Zizina and Zileousi prove an organized society.

Other historical sources useful for the study of the creation and evolution of the settlement are drawn from the written traditions which are dates in buildings of temples and monasteries that have been renovated or rebuilt as well as inscriptions on the lintels, hagiographies and church bells.

Melissourgoi

However, a Golden Bull of the Emperor of Constantinople (1321) who abolishes an arbitrary act (1272) of the military commander Kavasilas with which the latter had given the settlement of Melissourgoi to the Diocese of Dryinoupolis, , restoring the village to the Diocese of Ioannina, is an indisputable testimony of the existence of the village from that time.

Melissourgoi

What to see in and around Melissourgoi

The waterfall of Kefalovryso

One of the most beautiful places in the area is the waterfall of Kefalovrysos that springs from the north side of Strongoula having a length of 350m. and continuous flow all seasons. The waterfall in its course forms the stream of Koferita which flows into the stream of Melissourgoi.

The route is easy and marked and starts either from the Pramanta Refuge or from the Melissourgoi Refuge. We walk in a fir forest for about half an hour until we get out. Following the course and having visual contact with the waterfall we walk for about forty minutes. Leaving the gaze to wander from right to left we see the northern part of Strongoula, Gerakovouni and the peak Agathi, the Neck of the Ear and finally the impressive mountain range of Kakarditsa.

Kefalovriso waterfall

The view

The bridge of Koferita

(Σπύρος Ι. Μαντάς, ΓΕΦΥΡΟΓΡΑΦΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΠΙΝΔΟΥ, ΤΟΜΟΣ Β΄, ΤΟ ΓΕΦΥΡΙ ΤΗΣ ΚΟΦΕΡΙΤΑΣ σελ. 324)

It is located outside the village south of Koferita location and bridges the homonymous river. It is single-arched and its semicircular arch has an opening of 10.60 m and a height of 5.80 m. The passage corridor is flat and with a crown outside having a length of 21 m. and useful width 1.75 m. It is one of the last stone bridges in the area since it was built during the German occupation of 1942-43. The bridge was gradually built by local craftsmen and was completed with the help of craftsmen from Raftanei village. The inhabitants paid in kind, mainly corn. It was used for the first time by ELAS guerrillas and then by the village cattle breeders.

Koferita bridge

Churches and Monasteries

Agios Nikolaos church

It is a three-aisled vaulted basilica without a dome. It was built in 1778 but because it was set on fire by the Turks in 1821, it was rebuilt for the most part with a stone roof and a shed supported by columns. During the earthquake of 1967 it was severely damaged and was poorly renovated.

The monastery of the Entrances of Virgin Mary

Today only its katholikon survives and is located directly opposite the Melissourgoi on the mountain slope above the stream and a little below the chapel of Agia Paraskevi. The katholikon of the monastery is in good condition outside and the surviving frescoes are very few.

The monastery of the Assumption of Virgin Mary

The monastery was built on the site, where today the homonymous church of the village in the NW of Melissourgoi is, and which, according to its founding inscription, was completely renovated in 1843. According to tradition, the church was built before the church of Agios Nikolaos around 1747 and had two cells which were demolished in 1843 when its katholikon was renovated.

Agia Paraskevi chapel

The chapel of Agia Paraskevi

Above the katholikon of the Monastery of the Entrances of the Virgin there is the chapel of Agia Paraskevi which is not hagiographed and, according to the marble slab on the west wall, the date of its initial construction is unknown

Agios Markos chapel

It is a small wooden-roofed basilica without a dome. It was founded in 1770 on the site of an oldest – probably Byzantine – church, which was destroyed in 1696 by Maniatis Gerakaris Lymperakis and in 1870 it was completely renovated. The interior has magnificent frescoes from 1877 that are preserved in relatively good condition. It is located in the village and has access from paved paths

Agios Kosmas chapel

The chapel of Agios Kosmas

In a place with an amazing view.

Activities in and around Melissourgoi

The village Melissourgoi belongs to the area of Tzoumerka, one of the most impressive areas of Greece and is offered for all kinds of activities. Canyoning and rappel in the gorges, mountain biking and riding motorcycles and 4X4. Hiking trails on easy and difficult routes. Visit to the surrounding villages, bridges and monasteries that are architectural treasures.

A short distance from the village is the Mountain Refuge of Melissourgoi. Built in the forest with a wonderful view of the mountain peaks, it is offered not only for accommodation and food but also for activities of small and high difficulty in the surrounding mountains.

Information: http://katafigiomelissourgwn.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_40.html and https://www.facebook.com/Katafigiomelissourgwn/

Accommodation and dining in the area meets all the specifications for a comfortable and interesting vacation. The area of Tzoumerka has been used for tourism in recent years and the proof is that the traffic remains high during the winter.

In the Mountain Refuge of Melissourgoi

The post Melissourgoi – Tribute to the beautiful mountain village of Tzoumerka first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Syrrako – In a beautiful traditional settlement

Areti Myrto — Thu, 20 Oct 2022 13:16:42 +0000

Syrrako is one of the most beautiful and picturesque villages of Ioannina Prefecture and all of Epirus, which impresses from afar with its gray stone houses that are perched on the slope. It is declared to be a traditional settlement.

What’s more, it is a typical traditional village, a model of traditional architecture with stone houses, cobbled streets, churches, stone fountains and public buildings, which are creations of renowned craftsmen. Together with the neighboring Kalarrytes they are the only villages that keep this architecture unchanged in the south of the prefecture of Ioannina.

Syrrako

About Syrrako

It is located at an altitude of 1200 meterseast of Ioannina and at a distance of 52 km. The historic settlement is built at the foot of Mount Peristeri (Lakmos) on the pristine slopes of Prixa. It is separated from the Kalarrytes with a deep ravine, of unparalleled beauty, flowing through the river Chrousia or Kalarrytikos, a tributary of Arachthos, and is, due to its dry and healthy climate, an ideal place for a summer residence.

History and Information

This federation belonged to the powerful Valide Sultana (mother of the Sultan) to whom they paid high taxes but at the same time enjoyed privileges (autonomy, self-government, independence, freedom of religion, tax breaks, school operation, religious freedom). Therefore, the village began to experience great acne that peaked in the early 18th century and reached the point of attracting residents of other neighboring villages who came and settled here.

At the beginning they began trading in livestock products (milk cheeses, leather etc.). Later, they developed a small woolen production industry using wool from sheep in the surrounding meadows (somewhere between 50,000 and 60,000 sheep and goats at that time).

The fabrics were used to make different clothes but the thick, full-bodied and waterproof capes were what distinguished them and they were so good, warm and resilient that they were in demand both domestically and abroad, especially by seafarers and soldiers. It is said that a great customer was also Napoleon who dressed his army with them.

Syrrako

Their engagement in this profession resulted in the creation of a new class of merchants that was not limited to the boundaries, from which emerged a rising class of scholars and benefactors whose key contribution to national awakening and revolution was decisive. At the same time, they had also developed popular handicrafts (painting, woodcarving, silversmiths, goldsmiths, etc.) as well as the art of stone.

The inhabitants of Syrrako and Kalarrytes had established merchant houses in major European cities, such as Livorno and Trieste, since the mid-17th century., since the two villages were centers for the export trade of the neighboring villages.

It was therefore expected that this commercial move would bring to the village significant wealth, prosperity, education and culture.

Το Συρράκο

Syrrako and Kalarrytes were the only villages of Epirus that took part in the Greek Revolution from the first years. Unfortunately, the two villages were unable to cope with the powerful Turkish troops, which ravaged and burned everything. Total destruction. This was the beginning of the end of great prosperity.

The inhabitants left to save themselves and to live in other parts in Greee and abroad. The Turks, who were repentant because they had lost the trench from the wealth of both villages, issued an order one year later (1822) promising amnesty and security to those who would return.

But no one trusted their promises, so four years later (1826) they issued a second order with the same promise. (Both these orders are saved in the archives of the Kalarrytes community). Most of them stayed in the places where they had fled to and only some bold men returned in 1827. These men built the turbulent settlement again and the area began to flourish. In the 1913 census, Syrrako numbered 3,500 inhabitants. The decline in the early 20th century was due to the decline in demand for woolen fabrics.

In February 1881, with the Berlin Treaty (1/13 July 1878), Thessaly and part of Epirus were annexed to Greece by a new frontier line, the rivers Arachthos and Kalarrytikos. As a result, Syrrako remained in Turkey, unlike Kalarrytes, Matsouki, and Arta who went to freed Greece. So the two villages, Kalarrytes and Syrrako, belonged to different states, which somehow prevented the trade between Epirus and Thessaly. The independence of the area was conquered on 23/11/1919.

World War II and its disasters, and later the Civil War, resulted in the desolation of the place. It was difficult to live in an inaccessible place, without roads, without electricity, without other facilities, and especially without the great activity and profits that it had in the past. So it is left with a few permanent residents today.

Syrrako gave to Greece great men such as the poet Kostas Krystallis (1868-1894), Ioannis Kolettis (1774-1847), the first constitutional prime minister of Greece, George Zalokostas (1805-1858) poet and fighter of 1821.

Also the chieftains Katsikogiannis, Lepeniotis and others, the benefactors G. Yianniotis, S. Baltatzis, G. Ikkos and others, as well as many other men of letters, arts and commerce came from Syrrako.

What to see

The entire village is an attraction and it is not by chance that it has been characterized as preserved, something that you notice as soon as you look at it but also when you walk through its cobbled streets admiring the mansions with the arched entrances, the stone fountains and the churches.

Cars are left outside the settlement.

It is one of the places where man respects the tradition and the architecture of this place which works perfectly with nature.

Mansions

The impressive traditional architecture of the houses built almost all by the then famous masons and after the total destruction of the village (1821) by the Turks. They are two-storeyed or three-storeyed with thick walls (eg 70-90 cm thickness) to withstand the harsh climatic conditions and are all built of local gray limestone stone, with characteristic woodcuts on the walls and gray slate on the roofs. Some have built-in slabs, with the construction year, and some have the owner’s name. Today most of them have been restored by their owners. Some of them are:

The mansion of Avdikos Kostas: It was preserved in excellent condition by his grandaughter Erminia Photiadou (1923-2011), a well-known writer and folklorist with several distinctions, and it now houses the Folklore Museum, a creation of her, which she gave to Syrrako, donating also an apartment in Ioannina for it to cover its expenses. Here are all the objects of a traditional household: old authentic furniture, hand-woven, old photos (and the family’s), traditional costumes of the village, decorative and kitchen utensils, souvenirs from various countries, etc. But it works only in August or on the request of a visitor.

The mansion of Georgios Zalokostas Ch.: An old impressive mansion near the Dio Vrises. It has a built-in marble slab with the birth date of the poet (1805) and his participation in the fight of 1821.

The mansion of Dim. Crystallis: (Folklore Museum-Library): A magnificent mansion near the one of Zalokostas. Dim. Kristalis was a well-known big merchant of Ioannina but also a very friendly person. His houses, here and in Ioannina, were open to everyone, especially the captains. His son, the famous poet and novelist Kostas Krystallis (1868-1894), was born and spent his childhood here. Today, this mansion houses a Folklore Museum with personal poetry, the Library of Syrrako and the means of producing home-made cheese and textiles, while in the yard dominates the statue of Kostas Krystalis.

Avdikos Kostas Mansion

Dim. Crystallis Mansion

Stone Bridges:

Pounda Nouaoua or New Bridge: It is the first bridge we meet at the entrance of the village. It is a single arch with a flat deck and was built in 1800, but we do not know either the builder or the sponsor, since there is neither inscription nor oral testimony. It is kept in good condition, although without any repairs or maintenance. They named it like that as to distinguish it from the neighboring and older bridge. Next to it is the Fantanitsia tap (presumably from the Italian fontana that means a spring or tap).

Pounta Viaklia Bridge (old bridge) or Nik bridge: After the previous and at the entrance of the village, built in 1938 on an older one. In a close distance there is a watermill.

Bridge in Siopatos: A stone-made single-arch bridge that bridges the stream that starts from the Source of Siopatos and is poured into the Chrousia tributary of Kalarrytikos. It is located at the top of the village just below the ring road. It is unknown when and by whom it was built, but the money was given by the nuns to be able to go to the nearby Kalogretsi tap.

New Bridge

Old Bridge

Springs – Fountains:

Dyo Vryses (which means two stone fountains): A nice vaulted building with two stone troughs, near Zalokostas Mansion. It was built in 1876 by the great merchant N. Palios.

Spring of Goura: Above the square, near Agios Nikolaos. It is a masterpiece of architecture, perhaps the best of the village covered by a large but lovely curved dome, made from the pumice stone “Gigonara”, the name of the site from which it was mined. The terraces are a later addition, apparently for practical reasons (eg touching the barrels, etc.), but they are definitely a disagreement and spoil the beautiful image of the source. Tradition says that here they found the image of St. Nicholas.

Spring of Condol: Above Goura: It has also been saved from the great destruction of 1821. It has two stone cubicles, built in the background and housed in a semicylindrical stone dome on which there is a garden!

The two stone fountains

School

In the center of the village. It is a large, impressive, three-story stone built of 1929 and it is one of the few buildings here that have a tin roof instead of the usual with slopes, unknown why. Once it was full of life and children’s voices, but unfortunately, since the 1970s people began to desert the village and therefore it stopped working. Today it houses the guesthouse “Syrrako”.

Inn (Chania)

This is how the two large stone-built sheds with benches located near Ag. Nicolaos and next to the tavern “Stavraetos” are called. They are of the few buildings that escaped the great destruction of the village (1821). Here, the inhabitants of the surrounding settlements were gathering and selling their merchandise, which was advertised by a deval who stood high up in the church of Panagia.

Churches – Monstaries:

Church of Panagia: Just above the square, with a nice view of the settlement and the gorge of Kalarrytikos. It is a large walled three-aisled basilica with a dome and a nice bell tower next to the arched gates. We do not know when it was built, it is certain that it existed in the Revolution of 1821 and it was one of the few buildings that was saved from the complete destruction.

Transformation of Savior

Prophet Elias: At 1200m. It is a beautiful stone-built church with a roof of schism. It was a female monastery, but when it was abandoned, it sheltered homeless people from Syrrako until 1940. The cells were destroyed. A little further up, towards the NE, under a nice plane tree, there is an old fountain of 1878.

Holy Church of St. Nicholas: St Nikolaos is the patron saint of the village and is the largest and most impressive building. The original church was built in the 17th century, but unfortunately, it was burned (except for the bell tower) by the Turks burning the village after the revolutionary movement of 1821. Thus it underwent a radical renovation, almost rebuilt in 1834, the date referring to a built- plaque on the outer wall of the sanctuary. A second fire later, this time inadvertently, again caused several disasters, so the church was renovated in 1900 and is what we see today.

Holy Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary: It is a three-aisled basilica with a dome and was probably built at the same time as the church of St Nikolaos (19th century). The portable icons of the temple are works by the priest Dimitrios Bogdanos (1837) and the precentor of the Metropolis of Ioannina Petros (1842). It also preserves large-scale chromolithography on canvas, with mixed Christian and hagiological scenes.

Church of Apostles Peter and Paul: It is located in the wider area of the settlement at an altitude of 1,900 meters.

Holy Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

Prophet Elias

Prohet Elias

Agios Nikolaos

Activities

The village itself is ideal for walks on the cobbled streets, although it is sometimes tiring because of its uphill, but it is very interesting and pleasant. The longest trail is the path that connects Syrrako with Kalarrytes going down to the Chorusia (Kalarrytikos) river. A traditional hiking trail, 4-4,5 km, on the helically-marked path that connects the two villages for centuries, which is part of the small international path 01. The path is sometimes smooth, sometimes steep, which makes it somewhat tiring for those who are not used to hiking. However, it is safe and the image of the landscape compensates for the above. Somewhere here, on the Syrrako side, there was a Turkish outpost since this village was released a long time after the opposite Kalarrytes.

But there are other hiking trails, mainly mountainous in different places, such as the chapel of St. Apostolos with the beautiful view or the nearby villages (Kalarrytes, Matsouki, etc.), as well as mountain climbs on the high mountain peaks or in mountainous locations, while some can be done on dirt roads with 4 x 4. It is necessary to have good physical strength, and in any case to be accompanied by experienced drivers for remote and unknown parts. But there are also alternative tourism companies that will informyou. Fishing for the frenzied fishermen is a delight, and certainly the floating downhill (somewhat difficult) in Kalarrytikos and Arachthos will raise your adrenaline.

Cultural events – Fairs:

On June 30th, a big feast is organized in the Temple of Apostles Peter and Paul.

Also feasts are held on: June 29 (Peter and Paul), July 20 (Prophet Elias), August 6 (Transformation of the Savior) and August 15 (Dormition of the Virgin), which last from one to three days.

Food – Flavors

Various pies and potatoes are considered to be traditional flavors of the area. Eggs, desserts, milk pies, meat pies, lasagne, sauerkrauts, pasta, batsaria (a mixture of wild peas of the season, between two layers of rich mulberry-based porridge). Also, the mountain tea is very nice.

Traditional architecture

The settlement is built on the outskirts of a sandy ravine is an example of traditional architecture which, from the first moment, impresses the visitor. The houses are built after the total destruction of 1821 by the famous craftsmen and are two-storeyed or three-storeyed due to the high slope of the ground, with thick walls to withstand the difficult weather conditions and with the material to make the local limestone which was used elsewhere for building the buildings, the ceilings, the floors, the decks, the courtyards, the cobbled streets, the covers of the taps. The watermills, the churches, and the monasteries were also built from stone. Some have built-in plates, which indicate the construction time and some of the owner. Today, most of them have been restored by their owners, as time has caused a lot of damage.

In the 1950s and 1960s, Syrrako underwent a major crisis. The road was built in 1976 but today its viability is difficult, resulting in it being destroyed in the winter. In recent years, many new homes have been built but many old ones have been repaired. Beautiful guesthouses with high-standard services and landscapes of incredible beauty are a combination that leaves no one unmoved.

The future of Syrrako is tourism and livestock farming. All of the people from Syrrako assist and support this effort through their clubs. A prerequisite is the material support of the official State.

The post Syrrako – In a beautiful traditional settlement first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

The bridge of Plaka – One of the most famous bridges

Areti Myrto — Sat, 15 Oct 2022 17:16:03 +0000

The bridge of Plaka, located in Tzoumerka, is one of the most famous bridges, not only for its history but also for its perfect construction and its wonderful architecture. It bridges Arachthos, one of the most rapid rivers of Epirus and is the largest single-arched bridge in the Balkans and the third largest in Europe.

Historical monuments are an attraction, they recall important moments of history, but at the same time they serve as a pole of attraction for visitors. They are unique examples of the Εpirotic architectural tradition and modern Greek culture.

The historical and folklore elements of the bridge are really interesting and cover a period from 1863 until today. After all, glamor and historicity belong to the original.

The bridge of Plaka

The history of the bridge of Plaka

In this place, known for a long time with the name “Plaka”, there was an old stone bridge which was on the main road connecting the villages of Tzoumerka with Arta. The bridge was supported on one side by a huge rock. A difficult case which resulted in its collapse twice in previous years. In 1860 the torrential autumn rains resulted in the movement of the rock and the collapse of the bridge again.

The reconstruction

Its reconstruction was a matter of priority. The plans of the master craftsmen from Pramanta, Raftanei and Skloupo (today Ampelochori) were excluded, and someone master-George from Konitsa was proposed by Ioannis Loulis. Ioannis Loulis from Kortortsi (today Aetorrachi) who was a typical case of an Epirote sponsor allocated 9,000 grosses for this bridge and his opinion definitely did matter. These are written by Nikolaos Papakostas who knew that the account notes were kept until 1912 in his village Melissourgi.

On the other hand, the historian Ioannis Lampridis mentions Dimitrios Arvanitogiannis from Pramanta as a financier with 30,000 grosses. However, the work was undertaken by the chief craftsman George and the bridge was built in the summer of 1863, but on the day of the inauguration the bridge collapsed.

The new construction

The inhabitants of Tzoumerka were excluded once again. New construction had to be done, the third in a row. Ioannis Loulis gave an amount of over 38,000 grosses, the community of Melissourgoi offered 96,000 grosses, of Pramanta 32,000 and of Agnanta the timber plus 48,000 along with other neighboring villages whose inhabitants also offered personal work. The amount reached 180,000 groschen. This time the project was undertaken by Costas Bekas from Pramanta together with local craftsmen.

From July to September, they built the beautiful, symmetrical, single-arched and imposing bridge with two side openings (relief arches) for the channeling of water in case of flood, with a height of 20 meters and a length of 40 meters.And this almost has the same fate as the previous one because the early first rains forced the rapid removal of its scaffolding with the risk of being swept away by the current of the river. This justified haste caused a slight deviation in the bridge which was not apparent at first glance.

The Greek-Turkish border

The inhabitants of the surrounding villages, despite their efforts and financial sacrifices, did not enjoy the new bridge. From 1881, Arachthos was the Greek-Turkish border, as a result of which the passage was useless until 1913.

The area of Plaka was for 30 years the headquarters of a military base for the guarding of the Greek-Turkish border. Next to the bridge there was an outpost for the control and secure surveillance of the border. Opposite the bridge, the Turks also had their own outpost. The area was in a strategic position and, as it was next, there were many conflicts and deadly battles for its occupation and control.

The Myrofyllo-Plaka agreement

According to the information we can read in Wikipedia, at the inn located next to the bridge on February 29, 1944, the Myrofyllo-Plaka agreement was signed between the main and at the same time conflicting Greek resistance organizations, ΕΑΜ-ΕΛΑΣ (National Liberation Front- Greek People’s Liberation Army), ΕΔΕΣ (National Republican Greek League) and ΕΚΚΑ (National and Social Liberation). The purpose of this agreement was – mainly – to put an end to the civil strife that had preceded the last four months. The negotiations that led to its signing, officially began on February 19, in the village of Myrofyllo of Trikala, hence the name of the agreement.

During World War II, the bridge was bombed by German forces but suffered minor damage. The locals repaired it with cement in 1943.

The latest reconstruction of the bridge of Plaka

In 2007 the bridge was severely damaged – while there were already plans (only on paper of course) to carry out repair work, something that never happened, until 2015 when it collapsed.

The intense climate of frustration changed to optimism when the NTUA (National Technical University of Athens) stated that the Bridge can and should be restored. They underook, immediately, the realization of the preliminary studies. What’s more, they led this effort in close cooperation with the institutions of Epirus, the involved state bodies and the local communities. A collaboration that for one of the few times bore fruit.

According to what we read, none of the modern technologies were used, no hidden reinforcement, not even a kilo of metal from the minimum they had put in the original bridge, focusing on the technicians completing the work “by reading correctly what the master craftsman Bekas with their own craftsmen had done 150 years ago”.

The researchers deciphered the secrets of the original construction, putting in the “microscope” the debris in the riverbed, historical photographs and any other evidence and rational assumptions made up for the partial lack of knowledge. In mid-February 2020, the metal frame that supported the bridge during the works was removed.The people who worked for the success of the cause are rightly proud since the project is the largest stone bridge restoration in the world.

The post The bridge of Plaka – One of the most famous bridges first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Vourgareli – In an outstanding natural beauty

Areti Myrto — Sun, 09 Oct 2022 13:24:12 +0000

When you approach Vourgareli driving, the bare mountain ranges of the Athamanian mountains (Tzoumerka) are revealed to you. They end up on the gently pine filled slopes of Prophet Elias on the east and Omalis on the west, where the village is nested. Vourgareli is located in East Tzoumerka (Athamanica Mountains), at an altitude of 800m and is the seat of the Municipality of Athamania.

The origin of the name is believed to come from the surname of Vourgarelis, which was a logger in the region, or from Bulgarian loggers who settled here due to forests and running water for the transfer of buildable timber to Arta.

History and Information

According to the philologist Vaso Rapti:

Athamania

The history of the village is related to the history of the wider region of Athamania, as this was one of its centers. Athamania took its name from the mythical king Athamantas, who reigned in the Orchomenos of Boeotia and after the murder of his son Learchos he migrated to Athamania and became its king.

The most important king was Aminandros (220-184 BC), who organized the state. After the death of Aminandros, the kingdom was abolished and the area was administered by the public of the Athamanians. Macedonian currencies certify their submission to Macedonia. During the period of the Roman occupation, residents were forced to live in Nikopolis, resulting in a decrease in the population.

From the 3rd century. BC, Celtic nomads settled in the area, leaving a lot of toponyms, not Greek.

The Turkish rule

In 1820, when the Turks fought with Ali Pasha, the Klephts (self-appointed soldiers, anti-Ottoman insurgents, who lived in the countryside when Greece was a part of the Ottoman Empire) of the area and Markos Botsaris were assembled at the monastery of Ag. Georgios, in Vourgareli, to prepare the uprising in the area of Arta. A second meeting must have taken place, on the same spot, before May 30, 1821, with the blessings of Abbot Christopher. It was attended by G. Bacolas Karaiskakis, M. Koutelidas and 200 Captains, with the aim of liberating Arta.

Officially, the revolution in Arta began on May 30, 1821, when Karaiskakis and G. Koudeidas hit the Turks in Komboti. Another important event was the Battle of Vourgarelli, on 23 September 1823, where Omer Vryonis was defeated, thus rescuing the Revolution in the West Roumeli.

The square in Vourgareli

The liberation

Despite the constant uprisings of the residents of the area (1854, 1867, 1878), the area of Arta was liberated in 1881 and it was incorporated into the Greek state. In fact, this liberation concerned only 14 villages, because the rest were not own by residents, but some of them were owned by some squire, so the inhabitants were not free but slaves. The Turkish landlords sold their estates to the Greeks before they left, at a small price, which in turn became even more tough rulers than the Turks.

Vourgareli was Abraham Pasha Karakehaya’s. In order to reach its inhabitants, it was necessary to buy it, which was achieved after a hard struggle. The Mayor Theodorias Georgios Oikonomidis was the leader in that struggle. In the first contract in 1884, the inhabitants bought Vourgareli, by Abraham Pasha, for the sum of 4,416.66 golden Ottoman pounds. However, since there was an amount of 80.16 pounds that some residents were unable to pay the village was in danger of falling back to Pashas. Therefore, in the second contract in 1889, the landlord K. Karapanos from Arta was the guarantor, assuming the repayment amounting to £80,16 (2,244 drachmas) and thus became the new ruler of the region for the next 40 years.

In 1924 the inhabitants were able to repay the debt and the Cooperative of Co-ownership of Vourgareli – Paleokantouno was established. The Cooperative’s action was significant and at its expense, many charitable works were made.

Vourgareli

The occupation and the civil war

During the Italian-German occupation, the region suffered much, due to the cruelty of the conquerors, and in the difficult years of the civil war many residents of the village were forced to emigrate. In April 1943, Nap. Zervas installed his headquarters at the home of Doctor Anagnostis.

Vourgareli became the first capital of free mountainous Greece.

The Germans retaliated and on May 5, 1943, they bombed the village. German planes dropped more than 400 bombs. The victims were 13 dead and 30 injured, most of them village residents. Many homes were destroyed and many people were left homeless. The evil was completed on 3 October 1943 when the Germans burned it together with the surrounding villages. Then the church of St. Nicholas was burned, which was rebuilt in a design by architect and academic Anastasios Orlandos.

Agios Nikolaos in the square of Vourgareli

Another event related to the years of Occupation and National Resistance is the first theatrical performance of the Mountain Theater, the cultural department of EAM, played in Vourgareli square. The villagers also took part in this show.

The people of Vourgareli rebuilt their houses and set their lives from scratch. In the difficult years that followed (civil, post-civil years), many residents of the village were forced to immigrate, others to the cities, to study or search for better fortune and others in overseas countries, resulting in the weakening of the village as well as the entire Greek countryside.

What to see in Vourgareli

Such a place so favored by nature could not be left secret for a long time. The location with the unobstructed view, the green of the trees, the running waters and the stone fountains, the three beautiful bridges and the square (one of the most beautiful ones we met in Epirus) could only be a pole of attraction for those who love nature and are looking for the unspoiled life of the mountainous villages of Epirus and even the region of Tzoumerka.

And don’t even think for one moment that you will get bored. Beginning from the village you can explore the surrounding area. Starting from the beautiful square with the amazing view and walking along the old houses you first hear and then see the two stone taps that constitute the “trademark” of the village, Archonto and Kristallo which were built in 1926 at the expense of the Cooperative.

Do not miss the following:

Archonto and Krystallo

Archonto

Krystallo

For over 80 years, water is running from the 4 mouths of Archonto and the 7 mouths of Kristallo. There are also mythical myths that if you believe in them and drink water you can get married in Vourgareli and stay there forever. The locals will show you the house that Napoleon Zervas chose for his headquarters and there is a sign in the village square that will remind you that in 1981 during the Rallis government, Vourgarell was chosen to give farmers and livestock farmers the first EEC subsidies.

The three stone bridges

The three stone bridges of the village are among the places that deserve your visit.

Neraidogefyro: It is an one-arched bridge located in Barda Place. It was built at the end of the 19th century (1950) and the sponsor was Konstantinos Poulis. Underneath it passes a stream of Sarantaporos that ends up in Arachthos. You will meet it when entering Vourgareli from Arta! It is located on a path that you follow in your right hand.

Neraidogefyro

2.Bridge at Korais Stream: It is an one-arched bridge located in Vourgareli on the road to Athamanio. It bridges the homonymous stream of the Kalentini river, the tributary of Arachthos.

Thebridge at Korais stream

3. Bridge at Megali Vrisi: It is a single-arched bridge located in the same location outside the village of Vourgareli, going to Athamanio. It bridges the Kalentinis tributary of Arachthos. Its construction took place probably in the late 19th century.

Bridge at Megali Vrisi

The Red Church

About 4 km outside of the village is the Red Church or Panagia Vellas which is one of the most important monuments that the glorious Komninodoukades dynasty created in the 13th century in Epirus.

It is located in the village Paleochori, 4 km south of Vourgareli. It was built in 1281, ie before Parigoritissa of Arta, at the expense of Theodoros Tsimiskis, protortor (high military post of the Byzantine Court during the reign of the Komnenos and Paleologists Dynasty). The name Red Church is obviously due to the lively red color of the briquettes, of which the masonry of the temple is composed. Traditionally, it is also called the “king monastery”, probably because it was once the catholic (mainly temple) of a royal monastery which, when abandoned, became a part of the monastery of Vellas, from which it was named.

For the particular importance of the Temple, it has been designated as a Historic listed monument.

The Red Church

The Saint George Monastery

Surely the Saint George Monastery just outside the village is worth your visit as well. The monastery was founded in 1690 and it was rebuilt in 1714, according to an inscription found on the wall. Today’s cells are later constructions. In the middle of the 19th century, the monastery was in great prosperity and its charitable action was significant since, as mentioned in sources, it donated large amounts to local schools and assisted poor families.

It played an important role, in the sense that it contributed to the beginning of the revolution in Epirus, since the rebellion of the area was prepared there. During the Ottoman domination it served as a refuge for the troops and thieves of Tzoumerka, but it also covered the religious needs of the inhabitants, when the Germans burned the Saint. Nicholas In 1957 it was named a preserved historic monument.

In 1957 it was considered a preserved historic monument.

St George Monastery

The post Vourgareli – In an outstanding natural beauty first appeared on Epirus Explorer.

Matsouki – In a wonderful landscape

Areti Myrto — Sat, 08 Oct 2022 18:08:35 +0000

Matsouki is one of the three Vlach villages of Tzoumerka where they still speak the Vlach language like the Greek (the other two are Syrrako and Kalarrytes). It is located on the western slopes of Kakarditsa (2429 m), the highest summit of NE Tzoumerka, and is surrounded by other high peaks such as Katarrachia (2280m) and Kritaria (2200m). Those peaks form steep slopes and ravines where the streams from the waters that descend from the mountains are running.

Matsouki in Tzoumerka

About the village

Matsouki at 1100 meters altitude belongs administratively in Ioannina and is 85 km away from the city. Access to Matsouki from the village of Christoi takes place in a breathtaking scenery.

Arriving in the village you will pass the wild ravine crossing the long 51m long Bailey bridge. Until some years ago the bridging of the gorge with a width of 48m and a depth of 44m was impossible, resulting in the isolation and desolation of the village. In the winter of 1981, the army placed a Bailey-type pedestrian bridge. Then, in August 1985 the road was opened to the village and the bridge was installed. Also, a few tens of meters away there is a second one built from cement.

The bridge outside Matsouki

It is unknown when the original settlement was created. The local tradition says that the name of Matsouki village is due to its inhabitants who killed a terrible dragon with a wood or according to another version faced and hit the enemy with stakes. Researcher Dimitris Kalousios comments that the stories with the stakes reveal the “roughness of the inhabitants”.

The occupations

According to Mr. Agelos Sinanis, Matsouki has long been known for the tailors and the famous capes they made there. Also their main occupation was agriculture and signs of cultivated land show to date with the formation of steep slopes of the soil, the terraces (protective walls) that retained the soil.

Today, unlike the other two villages of Syrrako – Kalarrytes that have been deserted, Matsouki has several permanent residents who are engaged in livestock farming. In summer, about 12,000 sheep and goats and 800 cattle are grazing in the surrounding mountains.

The architecture

Traditional architecture is not the same as in the other two villages of Syrrako-Kalarrytes and the tingling roofs of the houses (a solution which was also contributed by the free distribution of the zinc by the state after the WW2 as financial support to the villages that had suffered destruction by the occupying forces), don’t look nice to the guests.

There are of course some stone-built houses, the very beautiful school, the maintained watermill and the traditional cafes. But surely the incredible beauty due to the amazing geographical position compensates for this disharmony, and the hospitality and good mood of the residents comes as a seal. Besides, Matsouki was one of the last mountain villages that was electrified very recently (April 1984).

What to see in Matsouki

In the village you can see the old cobbled streets (stone-paved streets with raw stone), the work of the Pramantiotes. The beautiful square with spectacular views, and the recently preserved water mill with the dristella (water-jet), which has been designated as a historic listed monument (1992) and is very beautiful.

Η εκκλησία της Αγίας Παρασκευής

Next to the old historical school where the very interesting collection of the monastery of Vylissa is hosted, the church of Agia Paraskevi is built, a new, three-aisled basilica with a nice wood-carved iconostasis.

There are also five chapels around the area with the most impressive the one of St. Athanassios hung on the edge of the cliff.

Undoubtedly, the waterfall of Matsouki is one of the most impressive sights of the village. Inside the slopes and ravines formed by Katarrachia (2280m) and the Cretaceous (2200m.), there are streams descending from the mountains.

Two of them, Mavrias and Goura, cross the village and are joined a bit below by the Red River and are then poured into the Matsoukiotiko Rema (or ravine of Stafyla). Matsoukiotiko Rema descends from Kakarditsa, crosses its homonymous gorge and a bit further below it receives the waters of Karlibou and is then poured into the Kalarrytikos River at the point where the Melissirotiko Rema is poured.

Also, near Matsouki you can visit the Vyliza Monastery.

The village is offered for wonderful walks, either with 4X4 or hiking. Through marked paths one can reach Kakarditsa (2429m) by passing the plateau of Helimodi or climbing to the top of Katarahia (2280m).

Other routes: Matsouki – Vyliza – Kallarytes (marked with duration of 2 hours) and Matsouki – Strogoula Peak (2429m without marking, duration 4 hours)

The post Matsouki – In a wonderful landscape first appeared on Epirus Explorer.