The two villages of Tzoumerka, Kalarrytes and Syrrako, offer wonderful routes along the paths that connected the two villages in old times. One such route was organized by the Ioannina Mountaineering Club in mid-June.
The route is circular, and the hike starts from the road outside Syrrako near the chapel of Saint George, passes through Kalarrites, and ends back in Syrrako, crossing two different paths.
The first path goes through the Batza forest, reaching the Kouiasa bridge that spans the Kalarritikos River. Upon reaching the bridge, a path to the left leads to the Kouiasa waterfall and the old watermill, which is renovated and operational during the summer months. The location at this point is among the most beautiful in the area. The natural pools formed near the waterfall are ideal for those who can withstand the cold waters—and there are many who can. We are in the gorge of the Kalarritikos, and words cannot describe the beauty of nature.
From there, the return to the Kouiasa bridge continues until the start of the second “Kouiasa – Pouliana” path towards Kalarrytes. The descent of the previous route is now an ascent, but the reward is the stunning view of the peaks: Kakarditsa, Katafygi, and Gerakobouni.
The path reaches just below the square of Kalarrytes. A stop in Kalarrytes, this beautiful village, is both enchanting for its location and its architecture.
We continue to the second section of the route. Crossing the village, we reach the edge and take the path that leads to Syrrako. We descend into the gorge of Chrousia or Stavraetos, another impressive setting. The path is safe because protective railings are in place at dangerous points. There are some difficulties at the very steep areas, but we overcome them as the railings provide significant help.
We proceed with a view of the opposite slope, and soon we catch sight of Syrrako, with its houses appearing literally hung on the gorge. We continue and hear the river’s roar becoming clearer, indicating that we are nearing the riverbed. We make a stop to view from above the uniquely renovated watermill.
Upon reaching the riverbed, a small metal bridge facilitates crossing the river. In the past, the river was spanned by an old stone single-arch bridge known as the Chrousia bridge, which was destroyed during a river surge. It was the first of the stone bridges built to ease the crossing of a very challenging path that ascended to the chapel of Prophet Elias, passed Baros, and descended to the Aspropotamos area in Thessaly (from “Bridgeography of Pindus” by Spyros I. Mantas, Volume II, page 359).
Then, the ascent to Syrrako begins. We leave the coolness of the water and enjoy the view from this side. The gorge, in all its wildness and majesty, unfolds before us. Upon reaching the old wagon that was used for transporting goods to and from the watermills, we have arrived at the edge of Syrrako.
Syrrako is a true gem of Tzoumerka, with its authentic traditional architecture. It is the homeland of Kostas Krystallis, the unfortunate poet who, however, managed to celebrate the beauty of the mountains during his short life. The route within the village, the two stone bridges with the cobblestone path between them—the Pountea Noua (new bridge) and the Pountea Nik (small bridge)—and the Fantanitsa spring, provide a final glimpse of a wonderful day.
One last look, one last photograph of Syrrako, and a promise not to miss the autumn colors of Tzoumerka.
