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Tribute to Metsovo – The Vlach village with tradition and history

Metsovo is located 50 km. northeast of Ioannina and is the seat of the homonymous Municipality. It is built amphitheatrically at an altitude of 1,160 m. on the slopes of a sloping and steep part of the Central Pindos.

It is located west and directly opposite the neck of the mount Zygos , which from the past is the boundary between the Northern and Central Pindos that continues with South Pindos (dolomite). But it is the “Gate of entry” from Epirus to Thessaly and Western Macedonia, and therefore an important transport hub. Among these mountainous parts of Pindos, a large valley is formed up to the village Anthochori which crosses Metsovitikos River and which, in the position “Baldouma”, is poured into the river Arachthos which springs from Zagorochoria.

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Metsovo is surrounded by high mountains such as: Peristeri (2294 m), Mavrovouni (2160 m.), Zygos (1820 M.), Katara(1689 M.), Karakoli (1491 M.), Chrysovitsa (1559 m.), Tsouka Rossa or Kokkinorachi (1985 m.) in the NW of the artificial lake Aoos near Valia Calda Greece National Park(Attention: There is another Tsouka Rosha 2377 m. In the mountain range of Tymfi, on the border of the Vikos – Aoos National Park, next to the highest peak of Gamila).

Metsovo
Metsovo

About Metsovo

Metsovo is a purely mountainous town, one of the most traditional and picturesque, surrounded by several meadows but mainly from dense fir and beech forests, where various animals (bears, wolves, etc.) nest. In such a position and with such nature, the climate is purely continental, with low temperatures, many rainfalls and snowfall in winter and cool summers.

The Metsovitikos River is born from two springs, which forms two streams that merge under Metsovo and just before Anilio, creating Metsovitikos River. From there, the river first moves to the west and then to the southwest, where, after about 25 km, it meets the Zagoritikos river at Baldouma and together they create the large river Arachthos. In the past, the rushing waters of Metsovitikos River moved ten watermills and sawmills.

North of Metsovo and in close proximity is the picturesque plateau Politsia or Politsies (Policuare). From old and to the present in the rich meadows of this site, during the summer months, graze sheep, goats, cattle, domesticated or free horses, donkeys and mules that are a wealth for the breeders of Metsovo. The name probably originated in the latin word Policia and was associated with a Roman military garrison that had settled there.

The Politsia Plateau was the favorite country site of Metsovites and in the old years, as the historian Panagiotis Aravantinos informs us, the wealthy Μetsovites enjoyed the landscape by staying in tents. Today a large part of the plateau has been covered with water as in 1987 PPC constructed a hydroelectric dam. The artificial lake that was formed gathers the waters of the sources of Aoos River and the waters that gather in the plateau of Poliitsa.

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Activities

In such an area the activities are many and varied. Metsovo is located in North Pindos which is a place where mountaineering and hiking are unique experiences. The routes and trails starting from Metsovo and well-marked, are numerous and have scalable difficulty. Crossing one of the most beautiful areas of Epirus in the Valia Calda (warm valley) National Park which is the brown bear’s habitat, they offer breathtaking pictures of nature.

From the area of ​​Metsovo passes the European Trail E6, on its way from Igoumenitsa to the country’s eastern border. Two of its most interesting parts are the city of Metsovo as a hub.

A very nice road trip is the tour of Lake Aoos as well as visiting the nearby Metsovo villages.

Metsovo Race: The Metsovo Athletic Club has been organizing the Ursa Trail and in the footsteps of the Bear running track in Metsovo since 2013. These races have become an institution for the region and it brings together athletes from Greece and not only. The goal of the organizers through the design of the route is to bring the athletes through into the bear’s habitat and make them aware of environmental issues and brown Bear. The route goes through old trails that have been cleaned with a lot of volunteer work and can now be used not only by the athletes on race day but also by everyone for hiking or mountaineering. Race info: www.metsovorace.gr 

During the winter months the ski resort of Anilio has easy and direct access via Egnatia Motorway (just 7km from the Anilio Exit) and snow removal services on a 24-hour basis.

What to see

Averof Vineyard

The vineyards of Metsovo are located in the locality of “Yíńetsi” , which in the Vlach local dialect means vineyard. Perched on the slopes of Pindos are the most mountainous vineyards of Greece at an altitude of 950-1050 meters. The re-planting vines project began somewhere in the late of 1950.

The vineyards of Metsovo are found in the habitat of the brown bear, which lives on the slopes of Pindos and which of course visits the vineyards tasting the grapes of its liking. Many times the people who work in the vineyards have found footprints from bears and teddy bears next to the vines. Moreover, every year in Metsovo is organized the established Mountain Marathon race “Ursa Trail-in the footsteps of the bear” that follows the bears’ steps. . However, Katogi Averof duly honored it by giving its name to a limited production of bottles the collector label with the Vlach name “Mare Ursa” (Big Bear).

The Katogi Averof Winery is harmonized with the traditional architecture of Metsovo, while the interior spaces with visual interventions create a unique spectacle. Next to the winery is the homonymous hotel that offers a complete hospitality experience.

The tour of the winery is definitely worth because the visitor originally is browsing the area of the “Museum”, where there are the writings of Averof, medals, personal effects, as well as the first draft for the label of the first wine “katogi”. Below is the route to the underground areas of the winery which is an audiovisual media experience between barrels and bottles.

Averof Museum

The Averof Museum of Neohellenic was inaugurated on 27 August 1988 by its founder, Evangelos Averof-Tossitsa, who had long wished to create a small yet exceptional Museum in his hometown. Its permanent exhibition comprises representative works by the major Greek painters, printmakers and sculptors of the 19th and 20th century, such as Gyzis, Lytras, Volanakis, Iakovides, Parthenis, Maleas, Galanis, Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, Moralis, Tetsis, and many others. The museum’s Collection is regarded as one of the most complete and important of this period.

In addition to the Permanent Exhibition, the museum mounts temporary thematic, retrospective, group, and other special-interest exhibitions with art works selected from other museums and private collections in Greece and abroad.

The main corpus of the collection is the 200 works of 19th and 20th century Greek artists collected by the founder and donated to the Foundation, together with the modern three-storey building built specifically to house his collection. The fact that the collection was created from the outset for the purpose of establishing a gallery defines to some extent its museology character.

Fold Art Museum

The Metsovo Folk Art Museum is one of Baron Michael Tossizza Foundation’s very first projects and has been in operation since 1955. It is housed in the renovated manor house of the Tossizza family—famous benefactors of Metsovo— which was originally built in 1661.

Walking through the museum, the visitors can relive the atmosphere of centuries gone by and learn how a Metsovo manor house was organised and functioned. Based on the idea of an “open museum”, the museum’s valuable items and rich collections are exhibited in their natural space, inside the rooms, stables, warehouses and large parlours of the old mansion.

The exhibits include items that could have been present in a manor house during Metsovo’s economic boom, as well as items that uniquely represent the nation’s historical memory: Collections of firearms and swords from the struggle of 1821 against the Ottoman occupation, copper and wooden kitchen utensils, jewellery, traditional dresses, decorative plates and silverware, saddles embroidered with gold, chests, agricultural tools, looms and woven fabrics.

The museum also features a major collection of 66 icons, dating from the 15th to the early 20th century, as well as a collection of Byzantine metal items, covering a long period from the early Christian times up to the late Byzantine period. In 1991, the museum’s third floor was dedicated to Evangelos Averoff, featuring personal items and photographs from his life.

Tsanaka Museum

The Tsanaka Folklore Museum is housed in the old stone mansion of the Veneti and Tsanaka families in the area of ​​Agios Georgios (1 Grigorios Tsanakas str.) and is a Wallachian Art Museum in Metsovo. Completion of the restoration work and curatorship of the Museum was commissioned by the Moscow Dance Association in February 2013.

Museum exhibits include objects from the Veneti and Tsanaka families, as well as many Metsovite families. There are also two showrooms with a collection of 19th century old weavers, pillows and embroidery, as well as the area of ​​wool processing until the stage of fabrication of woven pillows and woolen garments.

Averoff Garden

The main street of Metsovo Square leads to the Averoff Garden. It is a beautiful location with trees and plants. In the center is the restored chapel of St. George. There, in 1840, George Averoff before emigrating said farewell to his mother and asked for the help of the Saint. Since then he has never returned, but has sent money to repair the old church and to create a garden with trees of Pindos.

Gkina’s watermill

At a relatively short distance from Metsovo on the banks of the Arachthos River is the Gkina’s watermill. It is one of the most famous watermills in the area and its connection to Metsovo and the adjacent monastery of the Dormition of the Virgin is made with a picturesque cobblestone pavement.

This mill used the power of the river’s abundant water, for many decades, in order to turn it into mechanical energy for grinding cereals in the wider area. It has been designated as a historic preserved monument.

Anthohori’s mechanism

The Open-air water-power Museum of Anthochori in Metsovo was designed to highlight the importance of water power, techniques for exploiting and harnessing the power of water, documenting the long-term procedure of traditional societies in the pre-industrial period. In the open air museum there are old remodeled watermills and various similar hydrokinetic systems

The area is in a spot with great views. There is no refreshment bar in the complex as stated in the information on the site. The visit was made on 18/08/2018.

Aoos Lake springs

Near Metsovo and at an altitude of 1340m on the northern slopes of Zygos, on the Politses plateau, lies the mountainous artificial lake of the springs of Aoos River amidst an idyllic landscape with lush pastures surrounded by high mountains with dense forests of fir, beech, black pine and pinus leucodermis. Its altitude ranks it as the most mountainous lake in Greece.

It is located between two National Parks, Valia Calda and Vikos-Aoos. Mavrovouni, Flega and Tsuka Rosa rise to the north while hills and forests around Chrysovitsa and Metsovo extend to the south. The shoreline of the lake is large and lacy with beautiful wooded small fjords and many islets forming inland.

The lake was built in 1987 on the Politses Plateau to generate electricity, gathering water from the springs of the Aoos River, as well as runoff from the Politses plateau, but without any provision for ecological benefits. The reservoir grows in the area of ​​the Politses plateau.

The lake is ideal for amateur fishing, with special permission, and regulations, or for swimming, although the waters are frozen due to altitude. Also offered for a lovely roundabout ride on the lakeside road by car, bike or horses.

The churches and the monasteries in Metsovo

Agia Paraskevi

It is located in the central square of Metsovo and is three-aisled basilica, and is the cathedral of the mountainous settlement. It is not known exactly when it was built, but it is first mentioned in 1511 and subsequently through successive restorations, in 1759 with the permission of the sultan, in 1894 at the expense of Georgios Averoff and in 1959 by the Baron Michael Tositsas Institution and the initiative of Evangelos Averoff – Tositsas. 

The interior deserves the visitor to pay special attention to the wonderful reredos crafted by Metsovite woodcarvers in 1730, as well as the double pulpit which is rare for Orthodox churches. The first for reading the Gospel, and the second for reading the Apostle and preaching. The church’s precious relics are the mosaics, which are copies of the mosaics of the Galla Placidia in Ravenna (5th century AD)

The church has witnessed historical events that marked the history of Metsovo. The late chieftain Captain Stylianos Kleidis was buried here and this is where all the official visitors of Metsovo worshipped.

In the courtyard the impressive belfry with the clock of 1925 that has 25m. height was built in the period 1880-1885 and costed 700 pounds sent from Alexandria by George Averof  together with the plans. In the continuous post-courtyard square the «Koultouki” every year on the 26th of July  takes place the feast of Agia Paraskevi and the graphic dance of the women of Metsovo dressed with their gold-plated and colourful costumes. (Only the grandees of Metsovo were seated in “Koultouki” and not only was  forbidden for second-class people to enter  in that square but even not to pass the next street (https://www.vlahoi.net).   

Agios Georgios

It is located in the center of a beautiful park (Averof Garden). The original temple was founded in the early 17th century. It is preserved in its present form since the first half of the 18th century. Inscription apron portable icon of St George drakoktonos mentions founding date of the church in the year 1747. The same picture is dated 1751 and is the work of Metsovite  painter Stergios Papagiannis. It is three-aisled basilica covered with stone slabs. He even sent a gardener from Alexandria to shape the garden

The church was renovated in 1850 at the expense of George Averof. The benefactor himself connected particularly with this place. At this point, where the Chapel of St. George was, farewelled his mother when he emigrated and invoked the help of Saint making a promise to Him. George Averof, ten years later, was a successful merchant, kept his promise covering the costs of repair of the church and the creation of the park.  

He even sent a gardener from Alexandria, where he was settled, to form the garden which from the middle of the 19th century is known as Averof Garden. Almost a century later, in 1964, at the expense of the Baron Michael Tositsas Foundation maintenance works were done at the temple. In 2002 the church was preserved and restored in total with the personal expense of Yiannis Michael Averof. The last one is the great-great-grandson of Avgerinos Averof, the greatest brother of the Grand National benefactor George Averof, and served as mayor of Metsovo, Ioannina MP and MEP.He is the founder and lifelong president of EGNATIA EPIRUS Foundation.

Agios Dimitrios

It is located at Kato Meria (Kato Mahalas or Giosani) and is the second parish church of Metsovo and of the oldest churches, since, as it is called, this is where the habitation began. It is unknown when the original church was built. It was destroyed several times by earthquakes and was rebuilt entirely in 1818 and even with a firman of Ali Pasha. The positive attitude of Ali is due to the assistance he received from Metsovo helping him to cross the Zygos trail during this winter without problems. And here, as in Agia Paraskevi, there are two pulpits, something rare for Orthodox Church, as well as other remarkable relics. The churche was repaired for the last time in 1908

Αgioi Pantes (All Saints)

The church is located in the northern part of Metsovo. It is unknown the date of the founding and building. According to historical information it was burnt on November 22, 1848 and rebuilt in 1850 at the expense of the great national benefactor George Averof. The hagiographies of the temple and the portable icons of the iconostasis are works of art.

Ο Ναός των Αγίων Πάντων

The Holy Trinity

Small but impressive church at the entrance of Metsovo. The original date of the temple’s building remains unknown. It was renovated in 1891 at the expense of G. Averof. The same year the belfry was built above the main entrance of the church.

Agios Charalambos

It is located in the southeastern side of Metsovo in the “Giosani” district (i.e. lower neighborhood). It is a large three-aisled Basilica, which was renovated in 1834  by Metsovite Ioannis Tsanakas and then in 1850 at the expense of George Averof, ass well as in 1964 at the expense of the Baron Michael Tositsas Foundation. On the west side has been added a nice bell tower. Internally the church is partially decorated with mural decoration. Inside it has a lovely painted ceiling, frescoes and remarkable woodcarvings (the temple, the two pulpits, the ciborium and the bishop’s throne).

Ο Άγιος Χαράλαμπος

Agios Athanasios (Griziou)

It is located in the homonymous area at the beginning of the old road Metsovo-Ioannina. The church was founded on 21 August 1871 at the expense of the benefactor Andreas Fardis, while the inauguration took place in 1873. There have also been two renovations (1907, 1975) the first at the expense of I. Dasoula, established in New York. The last renovation and maintenance of the church was made in 1975. The last renovation and maintenance of the church was made in 1975.

The Saints Anargyri

The church is located on the southeastern side of Metsovo. It is a temple that was originally built in 1879 at the expense of the Metsovite benefactor Georgios Averoff. The church was demolished in 1980 and in its place was erected the High School of Metsovo. Soon the current namesake temple was erected in another area. The new church was inaugurated by the Metropolitan Bishop of Ioannina on November 1, 1984.

The Holy Apostles Peter and Paul

It is located in the southwestern part of Metsovo. Very old church but went through a radical renovation in 1895 at the expenses of G. Averof.

Profitis Ilias (Prophet Elias)

It is located at the south entrance of the plateau “Politses”, on the north side of Metsovo on the road to Kalambaka. The building date of the original temple remains unknown. From reports it is known that in 1861 the temple was renovated αt the expense of Panagiotis Tzioukas who was in Cairo. In 1912 burned and rebuilt with the expense of the Metsovo community and the assistance of the residents. The last renovation of the church was made in 1956. The church is historically linked to the liberation of Metsovo from the turkish enslavement after that there was killed Stylianos Klidis  who was the eader of the Cretan volunteer scouts at the battle of Prophet Elias on November 10, 1912.

Ο Προφήτης Ηλίας

Agios Athanasios (Zygos)

It is located in the eastern foothills of Zygos and the former entrance to the vivillage of Metsovo. It has frescoes from the famous Metsovite painter Stergios Papagiannis dating from 1743 to 1748, exquisite wood carvings by the sons of Stergios Vardakas dating from 1744, and excellent images of Christ and the Virgin Mary by the Metsovite painter Georgios Chrysoloras. According to the tradition, the temple was rebuilt entirely in 1818 with a firman of Ali Pasha. The current iconostasis is the work of Ioannis Gionis. 

Here in March 1854 Theodoros Grivas with his rebel scorps  gave a 24-hour futile battle against the Turks in their attempt to keep Metsovo, which they had occupied just before. Near the church there are three foutains: the fountain of St. Athanasios near the vineyards, the Siafa’s single hydrant fountain near the old Turkish cemetery and the fountain of Boianou.

The Holy Dormition Monastery

It is located on the eastern outskirts of Metsovo in the upper valley of the Metsovitikos River. It was built in 1754. The building complex consists of two-storey cells, hostels, and paved courtyards. The monastery is fully decorated with frescoes of the 17th century. The belfry is wooden from the middle of the building and upwards.

According to oral tradition, the bell was manufactured in Ioannina in 1870. This monastery, as well as Saint Nicholas’, due to its location by the river, has always been a pleasant station for the travelers who followed the road Ioannina-Kalampaka via Zysos. But in 1958 it was abandoned and left deserted until 1977 when the philologist nun Thekla came and gave life again. Inside the Katholikon, apart from the frescoes of 1754, there is a nice wooden iconostasis made in two different periods of time. Apart from the asphalt road, you can access it with a very nice hiking route, following the same cobbled path that descends to the Watermill of Gina.

The monastery celebrates annualy on the 15th of August and it is open to visitors throughout the year, but in specific timetables.

The Monastery of Agios Nikolaos

It is located southwest of Metsovo, in the valley of the Metsovitikos River. The monastery has a long history, although we don’t know exactly when it was built. However, it must be one of the oldest monasteries in the region, since it refers to the Byzantine Golden Bull of 1332, while in 1380 it is mentioned as a possible abbot and the abbot of Metsovo Isaiah who was blinded by the despot Thomas Prelubovic. The abbot Isaiah was an envoy from Constantinople and was the “ambassador” of religion, the Greek language and generally of the Byzantine spirit in Epirus, in the position key of the zyvoo of Metsovo. 

Reference is made again later in a document of 1650 stating that the monastery participated in the operating expenses of the then school of Metsovo

Its foundation goes back to the late Byzantine period (13th c.). The monastery was a rich religious center in the area of Metsovo and, as it was in a focal point, on the mountain pass of Zygos, it was a station for merchants and travellers who passed from Epirus to Thessaly. Its importance was mentioned by the English traveler Leake in 1805. The monastery of St. Nicholas was first renovated around 1700.

At its great peak, the monastery was one of the most important and most famous of the region and very rich with many fields, vineyards, nand watermills. The decline began shortly before World War I (1914-1918) and was completed when the Metropolis of Ioannina sold several of its estates, so the monks, without revenues anymore, were forced to abandon it definitively (1925). It was deserted until 1960 when the Michael Tositsa Foundation undertook to make a new renovation with the care of E. Averof-Tositsas.

The Katholikon of the monastery is vaulted and the frescoes internally, which are kept in relatively good condition, date back to 1702 and are the work of painter Efstathiou  according to an inscription on the left of the arched entrance to the south side of the temple. In the narthex of the universal hosted collection of images. The most important is the icon of St. Nicholas, a work of 1698.

The special feature of the monastery is the belfry of wood, material that abounds in the area.

The monastery is surrounded by stables, warehouses cells and other auxiliary buildings that are kept in quite good condition. At the entrance of the Katholikon there are the chains and the collars where they formerly tied the psychopaths who came here for treatment.

It is not only a beautiful and serene place but a living monument of viticulture and winemaking. Vineyards are spread around it, while in its cellars there is a huge barrel of wine (Karouta) that holds about 27 tons!

The Neomartyr Nikolaos

The Chapel of Martyr Nikolaos of Metsovo is attached to the southeastern side of the portico of the primary church of St. Nicholas Monastery and founded in 1800. The neomartyr Nikolaos was born in Metsovo in the late 16th century. His secular name, before his suffering, was Nikolaos Basdanis. He was martyred in the central square of Trikala where he was burned alive. Nikolaos was enlisted as a martyr in the conscience of the Christians early. He was officially listed in the Orthodox Almanac of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople in 1988.

The Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi

The Zoodochos Pigi Monastery is built near Anthochori of Metsovo at Kokkino Lithari ( Red Stone) site. Locals call it the Red Stone Monastery (Kiatra Rosia in the Vlachs), due to the steep, spectacular red rocks to its east, where formerly there were hermitages.

It is believed that it was founded in the 17th century and was renovated in 1732 by Stergios Dafos, as recorded in the estate inscription. Due to its location near the main road it was a station for the caravans traveling from Epirus to Thessaly and the Balkans. In 1820 it was destroyed by Ottoman troops moving to Ioannina against Ali Pasha, and its monks were slaughtered. It was abandoned about a century later, in 1927

Today the monastery is completely renovated and on both sides there is a corner complex with auxiliary spaces and cells. In the center is the church, built of stone and covered with slabs. The architecture of the temple refers to the Mount Athos type (cruciform temple with dome).

Noteworthy is the wood-carved reredos originally built in the 17th century. All parts of it survived the fire of 1840 have been incorporated into the new 19th century.

The Monastery of Panagia Chrysovitsa

The Byzantine monastery of Panagia Chrysovitsa is located in the homonymous village of Chrysovitsa and is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The catholicon of the Monastery is a preserved monument. The oral tradition states that the village itself took its name from the icon of the Virgin Mary, which – always according to the oral tradition – wandered successively from the first church of Chrysovitzis in the Trichonida Province where the icon was found in 533 AD. , in various places religiously to end up in the village of Chrysovitsa. The monastery was rich and mixed with monks and nuns.

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